Hi, just picked up a REAL nice 88 740 GLE wagon for a steal.

Alabama car, complete rebuild at 101.000 (yes, by a volvo dealer)

Odometer now at 117.000

Upon starting, it runs VERY rough, belching black smoke etc for about two minutes then it clears up and seems to run ok. (the service light is on than also turns off) occasionally when acellerating hard (to the floor) the engine revs to 3000 and seems to act just like a rev limiter and die off. if i don't let off the gas it will die completely.

the cat and exhaust is new, (and clear) new plugs, wires etc. all fuel injectors are new and work fine.

any clues???


Another problem is an odd wobble in the front end upon light braking... it goes away when moderate or hard braking is used, but light braking induces a scary wobble in the front end brand new brakes and rotors all around, new bearings. it has new ball joints and outer tie rod ends, struts are fine.


Thanks in advance for help!!

Chris

hi,

just solved a similar problem on my 240..
it turned out to be the oxygen sensor might want to check if that is workign properly it was the cause of my car running rich and the rough idle

hope that helps

the cutting out...ie: reving to 3K and then trying to stall out sounds like the MAF sensor to me, I'm currently having the same prob with my 88 740Ti, unplugged the maf and now I can floor it again. Try unplugging the MAF sensor and in park, get on the gas hard and see if it still wants to stall/cutout. It also might explain the rough/choppy idle, which is usually associated wtih having a bad MAF, the MAF might be seeing a lot more air than the computer is set to handle, therefore dumping in extra fuel that you don't need making it run "rich". hope this helps, maybe someone else more knowledgeable can offer you some more suggestions of things to check.

Ok, the front end shake????

i get a call yesterday from my parts distributor....

The rotors were recalled due to warpage (improperly machined)...swapped em out and good as new (also replaced the INNER tie rod ends for the hell of it...(they were iffy)

Rock solid now...

Next.

hall effect sensor was broken off, black (assume ground?) was broken and grounded to distributor body, the thing ran, but like CRAP.


Still idles poor, belches black smoke - peformance has improved considerably but poor (rough) idle, constant stream of black smoke from exhaust, upon starting the car check engine light on for 1 minute or so then off.

Occasionally acts like rev limiter around 3500 rpm, if i keep it to the floor it cuts right out.

Checked MAF, swapped with new....no change,. (reset computer)



Any more ideas???


Thanks

Chris

When i had gotten my 89 740 16v, it had acted like that with the cutting out at low RPMs like a rev limiter (exactly like a rev limiter), and it ended up to be a faulty Jetronic ECU... I'm going to try and swap it out again to see if maybe i can get better MPGs with the newer design Jetronic ECU (heck, it was only like 20 bucks)

Cliff Scott
89 DOHC740

Anything loose/damaged in the air intake hoses? It sounds like the air/fuel ratio isn't rationing correctly.

As for the wobble ... I won't be suprised if it's the cone bushings also, since it's not somthing that happens all the time. Mine's was like that too before they were replaced.

-- Kane
--
Blossom II - '91 745Ti/M46 ... Bubbles - '74 144GL/BW35 ... Buttercup - '86 245GL/AW70 ... The Wayback Machine - '64 P220/M40

I agree with Ronald that it really sounds like ball joints... but one other item easily overlooked is the "cone bushings" or control arm bushings. Replace them. They're probably original and certainly toast. They're only about $7 each, from FCP Groton or others... part ID #5 on this page:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo700900ftsuspension.htm

Get the "updated" kind. Use a little grease when installing. You'll want your 1/2 inch ratchet or breaker bar to get them out, but it's straightforward wrench work. Then if the problem still persists under light braking, you may need to replace the rotors again- even if they're new, worn bushings can allow them to warp. So can over-enthusiastic idiots with an impact wrench tightening your wheels- overtorque equals warped rotors way too often.
Don't bother having the rotors turned- they're thin as it is, and removing metal makes them worse. Just replace with a quality brand- no Chinese made junk.
Plenty more in the FAQ.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '86 244DL- 215K, 87 244DL- 230K, 88 744GLE- 198K, 91 244 180K

Could it possibly be inner tie rods?

I took the bellows (boot) off on the drivers side and there seems to be significant play (in and out) of the cup like fitting (assuming its a tie rod) inside the bellows attatched to the rack end.

Is this a DIY project for an experienced mechanic???


Chris

The front end wobble on light braking sure sounds like ball joints to me - how new are they?

Ron
87 745
230000 km

the ball joints were done less than 3 weeks ago