Check out 700/900 faq. The wiring in these cars needs alot of scrutiny for chafing and poor grounds. While I had mine all apart, I used new copper conn. and used star lock washers under the terminals to make sure a good ground was established. The cam sensor wiring was also cracking and the conn. where it goes into the metal braket was broken so I just replaced it. Better now while the engine is out. I also replaced all the torx bolts with hex head bolts, less greif later when replacing faulty parts. Good luck with your problem. I still like this car better than all my other Volvos.

The valves sticking won't cause the car not to have any spark. I would check the crank sensor, the cam sensor, and the wiring to the same. Check the modules on the intake manifold to make sure the connection is clean and free of oil. I just puchased my 92 960 wagon with a cracked block. Rebuilt it and got a repair manual on cd. If you want a copy; e-mail spedcowhead@juno.com

The valve sticking problem has happened to me twice. There is some information in the FAQ at the link:

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/960_90Info.htm#960EngineWontStartStickingValves

I'm assuming a compression test would confirm that that's what the problem is. I was able to get it started one time by following the procedure outlined in the FAQ. The other time required a tow to the dealer. I never did find out how he started the car. Probably the same way as defined in the FAQ.

Good luck, and please let us know what the ultimate resolution turns out to be.

Robert