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ENGINE CUTTING OUT WHILE DRIVING!!! HELP!! 200 1990

MY 90 240 IS CUTTING OUT WHILE DRIVING AND SEEMS TO BE STARVING FOR GAS. I CAN GET A LITTLE MORE DRIVE TIME IF I PUMP THE GAS PEDAL A LITTLE (LIKE YOU USED TO WITH A CRANKY CARBURETOR). IT HAS A NEW FLAME TRAP, SOLDERED GROUND CONNECTIONS, AND GOOD PLUGS.

IS IT FUEL FILTER, FUEL PUMP REGULATOR, OR WHAT....?

WE JUST MOVED TO CONNECTICUT LAST WEEK AND DON'T KNOW ANY MECHANICS YET.

PLEASE HELP... ANY INFO WILL BE APPRECIATED!

DON
dazsa








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    ENGINE CUTTING OUT WHILE DRIVING!!! HELP!! 200 1990

    I just went through this with my '86. It turned out to be the in-tank fuel pump - it was dead. Try filling your car all the way up with gas - if it is the in-tank your problem will go away or at least improve until it gets below half-tank. The in-tank acts as a power suction pump to help feed the main pump. The replacement is not too bad - you find the plate in your trunk that has wires going into it that is held on with two phillips head screws. Remove the screws and unplug the square-looking connector and remove the screw for the ground wire. At this point you need a tool to remove the locking ring around the fuel sending unit, or some type of aluminum/brass pipe or bar that won't spark to drive the ring in a counter-clockwise direction like unscrewing a screw. You will need to take the hoses loose before this though. One hose will probably have a ring or clamp on it, this can be eased off with a screwdriver. The other hose is actually a rubber-covered plastic hose that is shrink-fit onto the hose barb. Best bet is to get under the car in the well above the axle and loosen the metal fittings that connect this rubber/plastic hose to the metal fuel return line. Mine was way tight and I ended up twisting the line into two pieces, but you may get lucky. Once all this is done, lift and turn the sending unit up to snake it and its float out of the tank. The in-tank pump is attached to the bottom of it. To get a final "its dead" test, you can run two jumper wires from the two terminals on the pump to the battery posts (the terminal that has the wire from the plug goes to the positive terminal on your battery). Replacement pumps are available everywhere as the pump was made by AC and used on many other vehicles. My pump had been dead for a while and I had new power after replacement. One caveat though, damage has probably already been done to the main pump. When it gets starved of fuel, it starts sucking air (cavitating) which damages the pump. I already hear death strains soming out of my main pump, and the main pumps are not cheap. Hope this helps and gives you some ideas. If it turns out to be the in-tank pump, and you have any hang-ups during the job, just post a message on here or e-mail me and I will be glad to help.

    Lance (in eastern Arkansas - where Bricks are Bricks and Bimmers are nervous)








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    ENGINE CUTTING OUT WHILE DRIVING!!! HELP!! 200 1990

    Also cinsider the fuel pump relay, a common problem which can give the symptom. Then too, the 016 air mass meter gets cranky. The typical mode far a bad AMM would be, the car starts, idles 10-30 seconds and dies. If you can find a running car to swap the meter, it takes 5 minutes and might tell you.








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    ENGINE CUTTING OUT WHILE DRIVING!!! HELP!! 200 1990

    Hello,

    It's 99.9% likely the in-tank pre-pump. Confirm by placing a screwdriver on the open gas filler neck with the other end against your ear with the engine running. You should hear nothing. Either that or pop the fuse and note no change in idle speed. Cheap yet stinky fix, can be done by the average backyard mechanic in a couple of hours.

    Happy Bricking!!!

    Richard

    87 245 DL 351,000 km
    82 242 GLT 121,000 km

    http://members.cardomain.com/richink







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