After failing the State safety inspection for ball joints (along with the generous offer from the shop to do the repair at $425) I have ordered ball joints from Groton. I'm concerned about the seven bolts attaching the joint to the control arm and spindle- should I heat them up with a propane torch if they're stuck? I spent an hour and a can of PB Blaster with a rear shock bolt and fear I'll have the same rust issues with the balljoint bolts. Is this a good idea/bad idea?

I haven't had much trouble with the three big control arm bolts- they're conveniently enough, the same size as the wheel nuts, 3/4 or 19mm. You do need a second wrench for the nut on the inboard one, but the outer two are on a plate so they stay put. SInce I've got my breaker bar out for the wheels, it's ready to go....
The small bolts to the strut, I once had some trouble with. They're only an M8 (12mm head) and they were stuck on my 86 when I went to replace it. This shouldn't have been a tough job... but two broke off inside the strut. I don't think PB blaster would even have helped- they're quite long and deep set. MAybe heat would have been a good choice. Anyway with two broken off, I replaced the strut assembly complete with a used one. I guess they could be drilled out, but that required removing the brake backing plate to get close enough with the drill.... it was easier to steal stuff off a parts car we had. As long as this doesn't happen, you should be just fine doing it yourself.
The job shouldn't take more than an hour per side. And the joints themselves are pretty cheap.
Good luck!
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '86 244DL- 215K, 87 244DL- 230K, 88 744GLE- 198K, 91 244 180K

I just swapped a relatively new ball joint from a junk onto my '86 245 -- I think the job took about 45 minutes, including putting the worn ball joint back on the junk.

I've never seen any of the bolts -- the three big ones or the four small ones -- become so rusted that they wouldn't budge. Just use good wrenches and a little elbow grease.

You'll need to use a ball joint tool or a "pickle fork" to separate the tapered stud from the cap, but that's no big deal.

$425? ----------- Time for a new shop.
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Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

I dunno, if $425 is the going rate for balljoint replacement I'm in the wrong business! Guess I better tell the ol' lady that I'm worth about $300/hour...

Justin B.

"...tell the ol' lady that I'm worth about $300/hour..."

Maybe that's why she got ya....
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Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Hello,

What a generous offer from the shop!!! Did that include wrenching on the existing ball joints so tight that you can't get them off??? LOL. Most of the time the only way I can get those off is with an impact wrench. Excessive amounts of PB Blaster highly recommended, heating is allright with a propane torch. If that doesn't work, try lightly hammering your socket wrench with a rubber mallet to simulate the force of an impact wrench without the fear of snapping the rusted-in bolts. They'll come loose eventually...

Happy Bricking!!!

Richard

87 245 DL 351,000 km
82 242 GLT 121,000 km

http://members.cardomain.com/richink

These typically aren't as bad as others. Try the PB Blaster. Try air tools.

The spindle "screws" are hidden so I haven't seen them rust much.

Direct heating and cooling may be a last resort - but I certainly wouldn't use TOO much heat.....
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www.fidalgo.net/~brook4