Maybe an overengineered idea but what if:

Hook up ground lead as normal, turn signal leads as normal, and wires from both stop and tail lights through 2 amp diodes? I'm not sure if both would forward bias properly or not but it would be cheap to try. That way it seems to me that with brake and tail you would be feeding from both sides and keeping the BOS happy.

Getting too late as I am starting to dream up wierd $hit that doesn't even make sense to me when I read it!!

Justin B.

I'll be hooking up my hitch soon. I think I read in the archives, that if you run a brake wire directly from the pedal you can bypass the bulb out light.
Good pluck.

Why could'nt one lenthen the wires on harness and hook it to the wires that go to the rear lights, in a spot before the driver side rear light. This would draw the curent befor the lights, the rear R/L lights would than get equel curent and the bulb failure light should'nt light.

My Bulb failure light would not go out no matter what i did in my 85 245. So while i was Installing my tach i just pulled the bulb, looks better than tape lol. All my lights work and i also have the trailer wire harness, i think my problem was the tags light being out due to the faulty harness(thats solved too). Sorry i can't help more.
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Dan D. '85 245 DL , '93 945 .Delanisdjd@aol.com

Oops, read right past the U-Haul part, tape sounds good...

I think that getting along with this circuit requires you add load equally to both sides. If it sees one side drawing more current than the other then the warning light will be on... So, I would think you could wire your trailer with all of the circuits independently and hook them up to the Brick accordingly.

Justin B.

Black tape is your best bet. Volvo makes a trailer harness just to avoid this problem and I believe that IPD sells an adapter for aftermarket harnesses. You could add them if you are planning a lot of towing, but for one trip, probably not.