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Greetings,
Got under '83 245DL w/mega miles today and was able to trace front end "clack"
to tie-rod ends. A year ago, I replaced the ball joints on both sides and left the tie-rod ends alone. No time, borrowed garage, etc. TRW ball joints weren't the easiest "install," either.
On previous '83 242DL, I replaced "all four corners" at the same time, meaning 2 ball joints and two tie rod ends. Seemed sensible, had the time, plus bicycle as back up vehicle to get parts.
I tossed the ball joints but saved the tie-rod ends as they didn't seem anywhere near as worn.
OK, now the questions:
1) The 242DL (assembled in Belgium) had a ZF power steering rack. The present 245DL (assembled in Sweden) has a Cam Gear p.s. rack I believe. Are tie-rod ends the same? Reusability=false economy here?
2) Protective boots are NOT ripped on the ones in there now but there is up and down "travel." Can I tighten the nut holding the tie-rod end ball stud to the steering arm to buy time/safety?
All you papas/grandpapas out there, advice if you've got time.
Regards from the USA's "North Coast."
--
Franck 83 245
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As to question #1 - yes it is false economy. Tie rod ends are disposable wear items. If you are messing with the boots/ inner rods just spend the $8 a piece (FCP Groton) and change them.
from FCP Grotn website
"These inner tie rods that we list are for vehicles with the original steering rack still installed on the car. To determine what type of Rack & Pinion was originally installed on the car, locate the service plate found on the Trunk frame or Door pillar. It will list many different components, with one being the "Steering Gear". On this plate, to the right of the words steering gear you will see a number - 2/3/4/5. The numbers 2, 4, or 5 designates a Cam Gear rack was used, number 3 designates a ZF rack was used.
Another Way to identify the brand of rack is to look at the rack boot end where it clamps around the tie rod. If the boot clamps around the shaft of the tie rod and has a hole the size of a dime, then you have a CAM rack. If the boot clamps around a rubber grommet that is on the tie rod, then you have a ZF rack. The rubber grommet is about 1" in diameter."
Happy Motoring
Miguel
--
'86 244 and '87 245
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Can you elaborate on your comment: "TRW ball joints weren't the easiest "install," either"? What problems did you have with them?
I was just about to buy some from Groton; can you recommend other manufacturers/sources?
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M. Darmstrong,
When I replaced ball joints il y a un an (sorry for the franglais), I recall one side was the proverbial piece of cake, while the other....
I bought the parts locally, at a "generic" foreign car parts place in "Clean"land, Ohio, this job needed to be done as you could feel the "slop" in the steering if you took curves at speed, I knew danger was ahead.
I think one ball joint was TRW, the other not. TRW has left Cleveland in last year or so where susp. and other parts were made, not nice news for a dying burg....probably enough duds off the line, you should see the town these days.
I really think that the prob. w/the TRW b.j. was that I was furnished a lock down nut (large one w/ nylon insert) that actually holds the stud in the ball joint cup/retainer THAT HAD A DIFFERENT THREAD (non-metric?).
Who knows what the people behind the counter had done to the stuff in the box?
TRW is a monster firm that may repackage European parts by now.
I'm sure the guys/gals at Groton know their stuff better than I, around here, really have to read boxes/inspect parts before purchasing.
E-mail me at: frankly35@yahoo.com if I can tell ya more, I am grateful to have online friends in Canada only 40 mi away! Across a lake, unfortunately.
Amphibious 245, c'est possible?
Regards,
Frank Richards
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Franck 83 245
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I had a few come apart while driving. On one car the left outer came apart. After i stoped the car i put the ball socket back on ball than raped it with a coat hanger to hold it together. I drove the car home @20mph fixed asp. But it did get me home.Tie rods usually break as the brakes are aplied this is when the weight of car is at most in front,they also break at throtel up.Very rare that they break at hiway speed.When it broke that wheel turned in and man it screemed ARRRRRRR! Apone brake-ing the front wheels want to point inward and at throtel up they want to point outward (weight shifting)this is the best way to explain it. So at throtel up the the inners want to break. At brake-ing the outers want to break this is most likely not info you wanted but wanted to share fix asap!!!!Also the drivers side breaks since it is all ways hitting curbs
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I dunno about papas and grandpas, I ain't that old....
but the outer tie rods on your car are the same.
The inners should be replaced with the same type. FCP Groton has a section on their "Steering" pages dedicated to describing the difference. The primary difference seems to be really whether the boot has a large grommet or not. I can't say for absolute certain that the inner end thread is the same- they look similar. I've replaced both types recently and they did look like the same thread. Didn't try screwing one in to the other's rack though.
The length looks to be the same, and should be, given that they need to follow the same arc. So it seems that it comes down to the boot style. IF you have the matching boots for your rack, you're all set. Again, haven't tried to fit one on the other rack, but the rack diameter looks the same.
Personally the ZF rods seem easier to deal with- you get a new locknut with them, and the boot slips over the old one. I replaced a CAM style one and had good boots- the nut has to come off for this to slide over, and it was FROZEN so badly I had to cut it off and go find a spare nut. With the ZF type, the big end on the boot allows it to slip right over the rubber grommet and nut.
Remember after replacing any tie rods, you need an alignment to set toe-in.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '86 244DL- 215K, 87 244DL- 230K, 88 744GLE- 198K, 91 244 180K
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1) The 242DL (assembled in Belgium) had a ZF power steering rack. The present 245DL (assembled in Sweden) has a Cam Gear p.s. rack I believe. Are tie-rod ends the same? Reusability=false economy here?
Check the FCP Groton site for specifics.
2) Protective boots are NOT ripped on the ones in there now but there is up and down "travel." Can I tighten the nut holding the tie-rod end ball stud to the steering arm to buy time/safety?
The nut holding the tie rod end to the steering should be torqued to 44 ft lbs.
The up and down (axial) play should be no more than 1/8 inch, preferably. (Both according to Bentley 640-4.) If the nut at the steering arm is tight, your play is in the tie rod end joint itself. FEBI/Bilsteins were $8.oo each for a 1981 last time I checked Groton.
Good luck.
--
Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock, M46; 86 240, 130K
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