I've read numerous posts here about people encountering problems with stripping the threads on the drain on the oil pan. I understand how this happens because mine will leak unless I really torque it hard. (Yes, I replace the washer with every change.)

My question is, has anyone tried using a rubber washer to seal this instead of the copper washer?
On a Toyota Camry I used to own, it had a rubber (or probably some synthetic material) washer on the drain plug. It was the original washer (200K miles/12 years old -- and it never leaked! And didn't require the excessive torque (or frequent replacement) that's needed for these copper washers.

I'm interested in people's educated opinions on the subject.

Jeff Pierce

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'92 Mercedes 190E (my daily driver), '93 945 Turbo (a kickass family car), '53 Willys-Overland Pickup (my snow-plow truck/conversation piece)

Hi,
I have now changed the oil for my 240s, 740, 940s for 20 years or so. Never changed a copper washer. Don´t have any problems with leaks. Would neber use any kind of goo that could get into the oil! I re-use the old coppert washers. Hand-torque with the wrench set T-bar as hard as I can (I am a fairly muscular but still office-worker, would that be 140 lb ft???). What I take care to do is let the oil drain out for 10 min. Then I wipe the surface clean, where the copper gasket should do its sealing job. Whatever little grain that is left there will of course cause a leak! When it is time to change oil again, one will always need the T-bar and something hard to punch it with to get the plug loose. AND: in this European car you still have to realize that the drain plug needs a 1" socket. A 25 mm just won´t work! Don´t ask me why this is so. This valuable info I got from a friendly mechanic, we all rely on them, don´t we. Many thanks to those who contribute!

140 ft lb?? i use about 25ft lb and i don't leak anything out the drain plug...

yikes.
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Kenric Tam
1990 Volvo 740 base sedan (B230F)
My Volvo 'Project'

What you're describing is exactly the problem. In order for it NOT to leak you have to tighten it to an absurd level. Each time you do this, you're probably very near the failing point of the metal threads in the oil pan -- you've just been lucky.

The transmission pan gasket isn't copper, neither is the oil pan gasket. To use a copper washer in this application seems silly.

I think John Sargent had the best idea with the o-ring.

All of this, of course, falls under the heading of: "In My Humble Opinion"

Jeff Pierce
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'92 Mercedes 190E (my daily driver), '93 945 Turbo (a kickass family car), '53 Willys-Overland Pickup (my snow-plow truck/conversation piece)

go to fumotovalve.com a treat yourself to a permanent drain valve. The best 25 bucks you'll spend this month. No more burned fingers or hot oil. drops you oil chnage time by 75%

The only other washer that I have seen for a drain plug was a crush washer. I would probably still over tighten that too.

This is how I was educated:
There is a reason why I over tighten drain plugs and it is not because of drips. I had a drain plug vibrate out on a family trip in a Ply Voyager years ago. I must have forgotten to tighten it, but I'm NOT totally convinced I didn't. A very Good Samaritan VA State policeman saved the day by bringing a gallon of oil and a Ford drain plug which cross threaded nicely, considering.

BTW, what is the proper torque? Couldn't find it in the Hanes book. Maybe I don't over tighten.
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Tom F

Per the FAQ: Oil Drain Bolt. [Tip from Roger Huggins] My Bentley book (albeit for a 240, but the same B2xF engine,) and it recommends a 1" socket, and a torque setting of 60 Nm (44 ft-lb).

44 ft-lbs is up there. I may be going 5 or 10 over that. I'll try a torque wrench next time.

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Tom F

I always have a tube of silicone caulk that I use for sealing up the drain plug on my son's 82 GLT. I find many uses for it and many times don't even have the tip in place (it is one of those large tubes with a removalable tip). I simply unscrew the plug and squeeze out the small amount needed. It is great stuff and with it and things like dental floss, epoxy, heat shrink tubing, etc I repair a lot of things that would otherwise be tossed.

Randy

My car will leak from the oil drain plug even if it is very tight with a new copper gasket. I use an o-ring at the base of threads on the oil drain plug. It does not leak. If you use an o-ring is too large it won't work. You need one which will sit down in the tapered area leading to the threads in the pan.

Ideally you would find a washer that would keep the o-ring from pushing out from under the edge of the drain plug hex. I intend to do that, but I haven't gotten it yet.

Great idea! Once again, John, thanks!

Jeff Pierce
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'92 Mercedes 190E (my daily driver), '93 945 Turbo (a kickass family car), '53 Willys-Overland Pickup (my snow-plow truck/conversation piece)