today i was to frustrated to try to deal w/the no start problem,so i decided to do something i have always wanted to try.
put both feet forward,removed that fw404 w/s
removed 3 lbs of sticky butyl tape
laid a good bead of urethane and installed an encapsulated flushmount fw667 w/s
way cool!
way,way cool!
friday, back to why wont it run?

What procedure did you use for installing that w/s? I am particularly interested in how you laid the urethane and fitted the lip og the gasket over the pinchweld withough messing up the bead of glue.

first remove all butyl,naptha helps,but what a mess.
primerless quick cure autoglass urethane(essex or 3m are both good)they make an h.v.(high viscocity)that will hold the weight of the glass well,but i did not use it.
dry set the new w/s.
i did not use the setting blocks at the bottem to hold it up,instead i used painters tape (w/s to roof)at this point you will see where the trim moulding wants to curl under.after fishing the moulding up with a plastic tool, i took tape and forced the moulding to not curl by taping it back to the face of the w/s prior to final installation.
the w/s lays in the opening very nicley,it does not try to lift up or force itself out.the moulding is very flexible.
for the urethane i cut the end back @ a45 degree angle deep enough to lay a bead about 5/16" in diameter, and then at the tip i cut a v-notch so when i lay the bead, the v-notch creates a high spot ensuring good contact with glass.
make sure that the inside perimeter of the glass is very clean(glass cleaner w/o amonia)try not to touch the inside edge of glass during final installation,this is somewhat difficult so just make sure your hands are clean and keep contact to a minimum.
when you run your bead stay at least 1/4"to3/8" away from inside edge of pinchweld . you can purchase an adheisive foam dam to keep urethane from interior,i did not find the need.
just run a nice cosistant bead toward the middle to outside edge of p/weld,try not to fill the drains at the bottom,but if you do,oh well its not going to leak anyway.rite?
set the w/s
with the flat of your hands push,not too hard but make sure that it is seated well onto the urethane.
the moulding will lay nice and flat across the body(if below zero try a hotair gun or hairdryer)
before the w/s has a chance to slide down,tape it to the roof.
allow to dry over night.
any interior urethane cleanup is best done after compleatly dry.

i'm sure this is way more than you wanted to know.i believe this w/s will fit in any 140/160/240/260 and in my opinion a great improvment,unfotunatly i have several 404s laying around that i will most likly never use again,and my cost on the 667 was about $200.00,urethane$15.00 good luck

Hey, that post is a keeper to add to my treasure of Zee's experience with DIY windshields. I have one that leaks on the dashboard and needs doing, but unfortunately is already a urethaned replacement, so you have my attention.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

urethane does not mix well w/butyl tape.
no leaks are all in the cleaning and prep.
a complete redo is the best way to fix your leaker,although i would probably try to seal it at least once prior to pulling it back out.
i have been doing autoglass as an occupation for many years,and being unable to count the number of volvos that i have,i cant believe that i havent tried this "updrade" before.

We bought the leaker with the windshield already replaced. The trim was loose and clips were broken, so I bought a clip kit before I realized those things were urethaned in. I just threw the aluminum in the trash; been driving for two years with a sort of unfinished look and a leak that has me checking under the carpets after heavy rains.

Before I knew better, I'd laid on some flowable rtv. It flowed right around and on my fuse panel- better than the rain! Probably left a hidden rust trail too.

On another car, I needed a windshield for a "tomorrow" inspection. It was an 84 like Zee had "resurrected" from the junkyard. I took it to a glass shop and insisted on the new style, but the manager already knew what I was interested in and did a fine job on a Saturday morning; didn't mind me watching. $200. Of course I really wanted to try it myself next time, so began checking into some of the tools and materials (a north carolina shop had a web presence for a time) and corresponding with Zee about pinchweld rust repair.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore