|
|
Hey all,
So with continuing on upgrading the brick, I have heard and read posts about converting over to an electric fan and removing the fan clutch or something along those lines. I checked the archives and it seems like there is indeed a gain in HP, and seems like a solid investment. Hey, even 5 more HP is worth it on a NA brick depending on price. My question is before even considering this conversion, what is it?? Excuse my ignorance, but I thought it was the fan that kicks in when the AC is on, etc. and robs the engine of some power. When accelerating or climbing hills with the AC on, the car def feels more sluggish...would this conversion help alleviate that? How long would the conversion take, and how much, and do you guys/gals have any recommendations. I'll search more thoroughly through the archives when I'm home from work.
Best and thanks as always,
Adam
--
'92 244GL silver-metallic, 140k, Hella 550 Front Fogs, K&N filter w/modded box (no thermostat, and screens), Bilstein HDs, IPD anti-sway bars and upper and lower chassis braces, Volvo 240 OEM rear wing/spoiler, waiting on cam and header
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hmmm....thanks all for the input. Yah, def looking for a quieter engine, colder ac, and perhaps a little gain in power. Add it to my long laundry, and I'm sure I'll have another post about this subject soon...like which electric fans are better!
Thanks again,
-Adam
--
'92 244GL silver-metallic, 141k, Hella 550 Front Fogs, K&N filter w/modded box (no thermostat, and screens), Bilstein HDs w/strut plates, IPD anti-sway bars and upper and lower chassis braces, Volvo 240 OEM rear wing/spoiler, Unitek cam and header sooooon
|
|
-
|
|
|
don't do it for the power, it aint worth it. The normal fan with airflow going through it due to car moving will take no more than 100w in real terms about 0.13HP.
This is the potential gain assuming your electric fan is not on when you accelerate. If it is, you probably loose more due to the inefficiencies in the electric system maybe 0.2HP.
Not realy rubber burning figures. Main reason for the conversion is better AC, quietness of engine, longer waterpump life (disputable), fuel savings (marginal), but most of all: Fun to do!
Some cars have the vacuum switch that cuts out the as when the intake vaccum collapses, that could help you...
In addition I don't think the electric system is as reliable as the mechanical fan clutch, unless you make it a real professional (electical) installation.
Do it for the fun, I did.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I did it then I posted some info on how I did it and why I was darn glad I did it. My fan clutch died a slow death and the conversion was far cheaper than buying a new fan clutch. Plus, my air conditioner is cooler with the elecric fan. I locked up the fan clutch up with some piano wire and ran the ac measured the temp. Then I did the electric conversion in all of an hour and remeasured the temp at the center vent. The ac is 8 degrees cooler with the electric fan. That 8 degrees makes a difference with 134. It also give you a little more space in the engine compartment and it is easier to use a timing light. Go for it.
--
85 - 244 GL - Looking for a 245!
|
|
-
|
|
|
When crusing at 60 mph on with an auto trany, my engine rmp reads 2.25krmp, this is with an electric fan and syn oil.
With the fan clutch, it would be 2.5krmp at 60 mph.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I have seen at Autozone stores, an off the shelf kit to do just this conversion. Complete with all the goodys, such as relays, switches etc. costs about $80 dollars.
In the current issue of "VCOA" rolling magazine (MAR/APR), there is an excellent tech tip article about this conversion, to classic volvos 1800,122 and 544. I think it applies to 240 by design.
The bottom line from the article: don't bother you will not feel the extra 5 hp gain and it's just a waste of money.
I'm considering this conversion too. Why? For the fun of it!
Maya "89" 245DL 114K
"98" V70 GLT 70k
|
|
-
|
|
if you do put a electric fan in the car a good recamendation is to also put a LED light in a spot on dash. Wire the LED light to fan power so when fan is running the LED lights up and tells you fan and relay is working as well.Should be wired between the relay and fan also the ford Taurus electric fan is what the V8 conversions use as there cooling large engines and will work well climbing hills im not sure but i think its a low anp fan
|
|
-
|
|
|
The main power loss from the AC is the 3HP or so it takes to run the compressor. That's the main CLICK you hear when turning the air on. The electric fan, if you have one, also turns on at the same time to provide continuous airflow across the condenser, so that cooling is not dependent on vehicle speed or engine fan speed. When you convert to an electric fan, the relays should be wired so that activating the AC also makes the new fan run. Not essential, but definitely preferred.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '86 244DL- 215K, 87 244DL- 230K, 88 744GLE- 198K, 91 244 180K
|
|
-
|
|
|
I don't agree that the hp gain is marginal and un-noticeable. I noticed as soon as I had removed the old thermoclutch fan how much more freely the engine revs. It accelerates noticeably faster and is worth about 2 mpg. I have spoken to an MG enthusiast who says this is well known. The old fan consumes so much power it actually raises the engine temperature - mine ran cooler just by removing the fan.
BTW you don't need the plastic duct either. Put the electric fan in front of the radiator, and you get nice clear access to the front of the engine.
|
|
|
|
|
