I know that this may be a repetative Q but I am looking for some peace of mind, so I would appreciate any advice. I replaced my tie rod ends last weekend and I am working on replacing balljoints and strut bushings, having problem getting bolts free. In any case, I get pretty serious steering wheel vibration when my brick goes around 60-70MPH, does not occur at any other speed or when turning. Along with the vibration is a serious rattleing noise from front left wheel area, so serious it seems like the wheel may fall off. Can this be related to a totally failed balljoint, basically the ball is rattleing around in the joint? I have checked all bolts, including lug nuts, for tighness. Also checked for warped rotors and wheel, they all seem okay. Checked the spanner nut that hold strut insert, it is tight as well. I am just looking to avoid a catastrphic event, I have to commute 60 miles a day with this old gal. I really appreciate anyones advice, and reassurance that my brick will not fall apart on me. Thanks.
Rob Mac '89, 740GL, CAM steering, girling calipers, 200,000+miles

Keep in mind since you just replaced your tie rod end's you probly need to have the alighment set, i know when i did mine it acted like your explaing, but i accelerated up to 80mph beyond the shimmy point and it smoothed back out, once i had my Toe alighned it went away.

Well, I've never seen one come apart. On our 88 one was pretty bad, and I replaced them earlier this year. Our problem occurred mainly on hard left turns, you got a vibration that would shake the car apart.
It can be hard to diagnose a failed balljoint on these cars unless you've got a pry bar or something- the sway bar tends to keep things pressed tightly together so that you can't detect any play by hand.
I found it was a pretty easy part to replace, couple of big bolts. YOu do absolutely need a tie rod or ball joint fork, also called a pickle fork, for popping the ball joint out of it's tapered hole. The joint itself was cheap from FCP Groton. I got a TRW balljoint and the quality looked good.
I also used a 4 foot long piece of wood to press the control arm down in order to free the strut. This made that part go very easily.
Good luck!
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '86 244DL- 215K, 87 244DL- 230K, 88 744GLE- 198K, 91 244 180K