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I keep reading about this flam trap maintenance on this site, before I start on my routine maintenance of my 244GL w/ 72k miles, should I buy from FCP Groton the plastic or the Metal trap? Is one better than the other? I know I will install a longer hose so future maintenance will be easier (from what I've read), but is it necessary to always change/clean this flam trap filter every oil change (I've read this numerous times on this site)? I've also read that I could take a flame torch to a metal trap and burn it to clean it up. Is it wise to do this and re-use the same trap. Thanks for all your help.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo240tuneup.htm
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OK, call me "Old School", but I like the metal flame traps. They are easy to clean and can be reused almost indefinately and gawd knows we burn through enough plastic in this world.
--
don hodgdon '89 744ti, '81 242t, '71 D-35
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Is the flame trap really necessary?
--
'86 240(original owner), 225K, Boulder, CO.
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It's an important element of the PCV system. Without it, your engine can build up positive pressure inside, and that will eventually cause the weakest link to blow out. That could be the oil cap, cam seal, crank seal, or rear main seal.
As for the function of the device as a flame arrester, I don't know how necessary that is, but hey, the thing costs $2.50 complete. That's less than the PCV valve on any OTHER car, and it's simple and effective.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '86 244DL- 215K, 87 244DL- 230K, 88 744GLE- 198K, 91 244 180K
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That's been asked before on the BBRD. Many of you have never seen or heard a backfire through the carburetor. Flame out the top, if the air filter is off.
If that were to happen on your engine, flame out the intake manifold meets oil vapors coming in from the crankcase, and your wallet goes ka-boom! Even though it seems unlikely, it's not impossible. Flame trap is cheap insurance.
Regards,
Bob
:>)
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The entire system service requires the flame trap, the larger hose, the smaller hose, the rubber cup that sits on top of the separator box, and the plastic trap holder which holds the trap and hooks onto the two vacuum hoses.
Easiest way - for me - is to disconnect the hoses at their "other" ends. Large, from the intake air hose, smaller from the intake manifold fitting.
Then you can lift the works up and out of the car. Put it on old newspaper, or some other discardable table cover, and take it all apart.
Next unscrew the brass fitting from the intake manifold and clean it with an 3/32 inch drill. Keep the bits of crud and brass out of the manifold. Reinstall it.
The plastic flame traps are too cheap to mess with cleaning and re-using. Have a few in stock, change every oil change.
The vacuum hoses must be very clear. If not, use new. I replace them every other time, on the car that's not on synthetic oil.
For reinstallation, I find it helpful to remove the distributor cap and hold it out of the way. After that, there are a number of ways to do it. For me, on the cars that have not had the PCV system relocated, I follow there steps:
(1) Put a little ATF on the rubber cup where it goes on the oil separator box, and put it on.
(2) Assemble the trap in the trap holder, and put on the two vacuum hoses. Thread the large hose under #4 intake rail and get it near where it connects to the air hose.
(3) Wet the trapholder with ATF and insert it into the rubber cup. Last: hook up the smaller vacuum hose and the larger hose.
(4) Order an IPD (or other) kit to relocate the system to where it's like the 1988's and you can do the job from the top.
Good Luck,
I know you wanted just the plastic vs metal, I am just compulsive about explaining about fixing 240 Volvos.
Bob
:>)
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Bob, you know how many bricks would not easily fall into our hands if all owners performed your simple ritual?
Question: Do you apply the ATF to make assembly easier?
Comment: Only solid undeniable fact I can attribute to the use of synthetic oil is flame trap maintenance is reduced to just checking it. All the holes are clear and a pipe cleaner easily runs through the metering nipple without residue. Have a drawer full of unused flame traps!
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
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Art -
The play-by-play write up was easier than I had thought. Thanks for the kudos.
Use of ATF. Yes, it's for easy assembly. Once I learned that ATF does not attack rubber, I use it for anything like that. Putting the air box condensate drain back on; putting in new rubber bushings that the p/s pump and alternator require; all that sort of stuff. Makes a big difference.
Regards,
Bob
:>)
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Waldo,
I have a 1990 245 with 280k miles on it, the flame trap on is plastic. I live some distance form a Volvo dealer. I bought 1 new flame trap (plastic). Then I purchased a drill bit that fit properly into the holes. Now every few oil changes I just take out the plastic trap then using my fingers to turn the bit, clean out each of the holes in the trap. This adds about 5 minutes to changing the flame trap and saves 2 hours of drive time to buy a new one. So far it has worked fine. I believe I would stay away from the blue wrench, I would be afraid of just carboning the trap up, and making the problem worse, instead of cleaning it.
Jon
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The PLASTIC traps have a much better track record...I clean mine in solvent and reuse them...once a year...clean the adjacent hoses and connections as well.
take care..Dee Jay
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