Ok, so I'm attempting to put in my new cam as well as change the timing belt. All has gone well up until now, when I find it is impossible to undo either the crankshaft pulley bolt or the camshaft pulley bold. As for the crank, i put it in 4th gear (M46 tranny), had my friend hold the brakes, and it still moved the car without any indication of ever wanting to loosen. As for the cam pulley bolt, I broke a strap wrench on it already, and then I held onto the cam with vise grips, but still the cam would turn in the vise grips(even after I closed the vise grips with another wrench for ultra tight-ness). Anyone have any tricks or tips? I'm really frustrated at the moment, as I need to get this done in the next day or two, and I can't get past this dumb step. Thanks in advance for any advice!
Nate Gundy

As for the crank pulley. Lay your breaker bar up against the frame. Tap the starter. The camshaft ??? I have not tried this on the cam shaft. Theoretically you could do the cam first ... I'm trying to think where you would lay the breaker bar ....hmmm.

I've done this two times on cranks and I got the trick from a Toyota mechanic.
Happy motoring
Miguel
--
'86 244 and '87 245

"but still the cam would turn in the vise grips(even after I closed the vise grips with another wrench for ultra tight-ness). "

I wouldn't use vise grips on the pulley just in case I bend or damage the part that contacted the belt. I thought there are holes in the pulley through which you can insert a screwdriver and hook it against the block to prevent the pulley from turning while you are applying torque to the bolt.

WIth the timing belt still on (or reinstalled) I wedge *something* (like a small piece of wood, or screwdriver handle) into the belt at the cam pulley, on the side where the belt is heading toward the intermediate pulley. That is, the lower right side as viewed from front. Turn the engine backwards a bit to lock this block into place under the belt.
Hold the wrench onto the pulley bolt, and a couple of whacks with a 2-lb sledgehammer (very handy size I might add) and the bolt is free.
For the crank pulley, there are options- the Volvo harmonic balancer holding tool is available for about $40 from the dealer or online parts places. The "rope trick" in the 700FAQ is a great solution.
I find an impact wrench is the best for all these items- if you've already got an air compressor then you can spend from $30 to $200 on an impact gun. If not, the other options are it for your choices. Never tried the breaker bar/bump the starter trick but it sounds like a good one if you block everything appropriately. I wouldn't do it with any tools that don't say "lifetime guarantee" though....
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '86 244DL- 215K, 87 244DL- 230K, 88 744GLE- 198K, 91 244 180K

I wouldn't try this on the crank, as long as so many better methods exist, but most of my combination wrenches have a few dings up along the shaft near the open end where I strike them with a hammer. I recall using this method on the cam gear bolt, right or wrong. The method seems to work well unopposed by anything more than the resistance to getting a reasonable mass (like the camshaft) turning quickly.

A trick for assembly (again, right or wrong) is paying attention to the wrench's angle with respect to, say the cam gear, so you can both know you are making progress and how much further from hand-tight, in eyeball degrees, was the fastener.

Of course, I wear a helmet, face-shield and two pair of goggles, and heavy leather gloves in case some of that tool steel should become airborne;-) Seriously, my brother had a chunk of chisel enter his wrist and bury itself many years ago, so make safe work a priority.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Crank:

Use a LARGE prybar and connect the 24mm socket at the end.
Stick it onto the crank pulley bolt and rest its end on a large block under the car.
Disconnect coil wire.
Give the crank a quick turn of the key. This will turn the crankshaft while the prybar holds the bolt.

Make sure you are turning in the right direction to losten (counterclockwise as expected).

Worked for me. Torque the crank bolt to around 45 (i think).

Greg

I've had success with this method on an old 77 Cherokee. It was a little scary, but worked just fine. Just be careful.
-JonB. 83 245DL

Find a flat tip screwdriver or something similar. Put the tip into a tooth gap, the handle on the tensioner bolt or whatever it catches. Worked for me. Same process for intermediate gear, and for reassembly. I used a flat tip about 5 inches long.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)