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245 Possible Fuel Pump Problems 200 1986

My '86 245 (B230F) is having intermittent problems with hesitation, almost to the point of "missing". The conditions appear to be as follows - less than 1/2 tank of fuel, after driving for more than 30 minutes, car idles fine but stumbles when gas is applied. Other things that I know - fuel gauge is inaccurate (it shows full when filled up, but drops off very quickly after 3/4 tank) and main fuel pump is a rebuilt-unit (Bosch with the red label on it by rebuilders)that is very noisy. I have not verified condition of in-tank pump.
Since this appears to be associated with fuel level, is this likely a hose in the tank or possibly a weak in-tank pump?








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    245 Possible Fuel Pump Problems 200 1986

    The little connector hose on the uptake ot the in-tank is loose (cheap hose used to fix it before?) or cracked. Real common.








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    245 Possible Fuel Pump Problems 200 1986

    I'm going through the same set of symptons as you with my 87' 240. I found the return line hose at the sending unit was rusted away and weeping and spitting fuel. I got a new sending unit. It drove for about a hour fine and then the same problems. The car sat for another hour then drove the hour back home fine. I'm still not sure whats wrong. I know this didn't help you much but if you figure something out please post it so I can give it a try. Thanks...Mike








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      245 Possible Fuel Pump Problems 200 1986

      I found this old post dating back to January from Don Foster (THE Volvo Guru it seems)on the suction hose on the in-take pump. It seems that when the fuel level gets low, it causes the pump to suck air which supplies fuel foam instead of liquid fuel to the injectors - causing our problems (hesitation from the engine and noisy pump). Here is the link to cut and paste into your browser.

      http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=324235

      I will check this possible solution out this weekend. Till then I am just going to keep it full of gas so I can keep driving.








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        245 Possible Fuel Pump Problems 200 1986

        "...old post dating back to January from Don Foster (THE Volvo Guru it seems)..."

        No, just a brickhead.

        Wife says, "bonehead," so I dunno....

        Sounds like that little hose to me...

        Unfortunately, getting to it is a bit of a chore. Keep in mind that you'll be working in a dangerous situation -- all those gas fumes around -- so be very thoughful and safety-minded in your work.
        --
        Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)








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          245 Possible Fuel Pump Problems 200 1986

          Hello Don,

          I have a quick question. I am going to take a look at the in-tank this weekend. Being a wagon, what do I do to get to the access cover over the tank. Would it be easier to drop the tank down as opposed to going through the top? I need to replace the fuel gage sending unit also, as the gage shows full when full, but quickly drops off after 3/4 tank.

          Thanks,
          Lance

          P.S. Jast found '91 740 Turbo Wagon for sale for $1,000.00 It has 142K and auto trans, only problems are a dented (easily knocked back out) front fender, broken lens on front turn signal light, wobbly power-steering pump pulley, and seat cushion bottom is loose on passenger's side. On the plus side, the car had not been started in two years and battery was dead (I mean dead dog dead). Put a portable starter on it and it fired up after three seconds and idled smooth. What is your advice on these later model (to me) bricks?








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            245 Possible Fuel Pump Problems 200 1986

            Lance --

            Behind the rear seat and ahead of the storage compartment door is a panel held down by two screws. Remove the screws and swing the panel up -- it's hinged and should pivot to about 45-degrees. Wedge it up with something.

            Under that panel you'll see a small oval access panel secured by two screws. Several wires go through it to the tank sender and tank pump.

            Remove this panel.

            Look directly down and you'll see the top of the sender. Use compressed air to blow and the sand 'n crap off the top before you remove it -- otherwise it dumps into the gas.

            You must remove several hoses. One disconnects directly, the other can be removed off the barb fitting by gently heating it to soften the plastic. I use a hot air gun and PLENTY of fresh air from a fan. I don't want gas fumes drifting through the blower motor with its arcs 'n sparks.

            (Upon resassembly, secure this hose over the barb fitting using a small hose clamp.)

            Once the hoses and wires are disconnected, you turn the lock ring using the special tool -- or a hammer and screwdriver. If you beat on the lock ring, buy a replacement. The pounding usually deforms it.

            The sender assembly lifts straight up, but you must twist 'n turn it to fit the float and then the sock filter through the hole. (This is one time it's easier going in than coming out.)

            Comment ---- most 240 gas gauges are quite non-linear. Yours may be no different.

            We have a '91 740 non-turbo with about 245k miles on it. So far the only thing is some piston slap and a hard-shifting tranny. Wife has managed to dent EVERY body panel on the car.

            I'd say your $1000 '91 is a find, but expect to put another $1000-2000 into it. You will absolutely find other hidden problems once you begin driving it.
            --
            Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)







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