Well, I took the trans out of my 89 240 project car. Bought a harbor freight trans jack and it makes a big difference.

Doing the rear main seal and have a new style brown (viton material) on hand. Question: this seal does not have a spring but a stiff metal outside ring - the old orange versions, I thought had a ring spring inside the lip? Maybe this new style does not need one.

According to 700 FAQs - this is their quote:

Seal Design:

[Matt L./Rolyak] There are two rear seals available: one is 10mm thick (red: silicone) and the other (grey or brown: Viton) is 7mm. The more expensive Viton will last much longer than the silicone rubber material.The 10mm is stock and the 7mm is replacement. Why? Because the original 10mm seal wore a tiny groove in the crankshaft after thousands of miles of driving. For best results, the new seal should rub against the crankshaft in a new place (after you have cleaned the crankshaft with crocus cloth or fine steel wool). You could also accomplish the same thing by driving the 10mm seal into the seal housing slightly more than the old one was.

Before I put in the viton seal tomorrow, just wanted to check and see who has used one of these. This is a premptive seal job as I had the driveshaft out and saw some signs of oil leakage. I think this is the second 240 I have done myself and have done two other main seals on 740s! It makes for a delightful day....

Bob Weber
49 Volvos since 1979
Hamilton, Ohio 45013

The Viton seal is VASTLY better and should last much longer than the silicone red/brown seal. It's a more robust seal. But there is one trick to installing it. If you don't have the new OEM seal installer tool with a lip, then do one of two things:

-cut away the inside protrusion on the seal holder (the plastic it is mounted on) and slip the holder on the crank and press the seal in place to make sure the seal lips are not turned under or are out of place OR

-get a piece of 1mm thick plastic card stock from a hobby store. Shape it using a hot air gun to the approximate curve of the crank. Using that card stock (which need be only 1-1/2 inches wide), work it between the seal and the crank and around so that the seal lips are fully seated against the crank. You are trying to force it in so that it pushes the lips back and out, then allows them to rest correctly on the crank when removed.

I learned this on my front crank seal, which leaked immediately since I somehow turned a lip or didn't seal it correctly. Using the shim stock solved the problem without removing the seal.

I am taking the whole seal and crank flange out - usually put the seal in the flange on the bench and then mount on the crank - no problems before. Your post gives me food for though.

Just spent an half hour looking for a guide pin to the trans linkage. How do parts vanish into thin air?????

Have to take the torque converter and flywheel off tomorrow (marking it carefully) and then the seal! With luck the trans will be back in the car tomorrow. Almost broke a trans line trying to get that off. Rust never sleeps!

Bob Weber