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Horrible Gas Mileage in 164! 140-160 1972

I've got a 1972 Volvo 164. It gets horrible gas mileage(about 10m/g at times 8m/g). What can I do to solve or better this? Do I need an engine rebuild?
-George








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    Horrible Gas Mileage in 164! 140-160 1972

    My advice is to check the manifold pressure sensor. I have replaced more of those than anything else over the years for poor fuel mileage. Take the hose off at the manifold end and suck on it. If you can draw any amount of air through the hose, the copper bellows are perforated and you will need a good used or new MPS.
    Running symptoms will be smoky exhaust and a rough idle, and a bit of surging at cruise due to the rich mixture. The plugs will be dark brown, or black.








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      Horrible Gas Mileage in 164! 140-160 1972

      I have 1974 164e that gets 10mpg and I have a bad map sensor for sure. I drilled out the revits in mine to see what was the problem. The metal diaphram had been torn due to a back fire. Ive done some price checking and it looks like new the part would run 300-350 dollars. My new plan is to find a working used map sensor reguarless of the bosh model number, drill it out and put its diaphram in my map sensor.








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        Horrible Gas Mileage in 164! 140-160 1972

        Sounds like a good plan. I have done that myself. Good luck with it.








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          Horrible Gas Mileage in 164! 140-160 1972

          What do you mean by "map" sensor? What is it and where is it? Still learning about FI. THX








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            Horrible Gas Mileage in 164! 140-160 1972

            The old Bosch D-jet term is Manifold Pressure Sensor, whereas the newer commonly accepted term for OBD systems is Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (MAP). They do the same thing, although the Bosch unit is archaic now. It is located on the right inner fender, connected to intake manifold with what looks like a bit of fuel hose, and has an electrical connector on it too. It is a bit smaller than a beer can, aluminum body.








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    Horrible Gas Mileage in 164! 140-160 1972

    I'd guess D-Jet (the electrical FI on a '72) maladies. Get a multimeter and test away!

    http://www.icbm.org/erkson/ttt/engine/fuel_injection/d-jet.html

    Usually running rich is a result of bad sensors (or wiring to and from them) on either the coolant temp sensor or the manifold air pressure sensor. Possibly the fuel pressure regulator (S/B 28 psi at all times). The air temp sensor has very little effect on the mixture. The adjuster knob on the computer box only affect idle mixture adjustment.








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      Horrible Gas Mileage in 164! 140-160 1972

      Hi there I'm having the same problems with my 74 164 so I'm goint to do the tests you recommend.How do you test the cold start injector ....just disconnect it when car is cold and try starting it to see how much fuel is ejected? Are you suggesting I drive the car with the cold start disconnected to see if there is a difference. New to fuel injection. This an excellent site for these clasic Volvos.








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        Horrible Gas Mileage in 164! 140-160 1972

        I was just reading a similar post addressing these problems and someone suggested that the "thermal timer switch" which controls the cold start injector could be causing restart problems....it was suggested that the extra gas was not really needed ,even in a slightly warm engine, so the "TTS" was connected to a toggle switch on the dash for really cold weather starts only. Since the warmer wether is here now I could conceivebly disconnect the "TTS" completely, and thus the cold start injector, as my problem seems to be restarting the car after a run when the engine is warm. If i do disconnect and it is the first start of the day could I just give it a bit of gas with the pedal to start?








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      Horrible Gas Mileage in 164! 140-160 1972

      At that bad a mileage number, it would probably be exhibiting other symptoms as well, like hard hot starting, sluggish low power acceleration, and smelly exhaust. I suspect overrich mixture is the problem. Pull your sparkplugs, they are probably sooty. There are a couple of checks you can do on the D-Jet injection with minor work and no major dissassembly. And finding someone who knows this system is rare.

      Most likely: The first thing to check is the connection the the coolant temp sensor, at the front-top of the engine. These wires are subject to much heat and are frequently dislodged. With the engine running, jostle the wires back and forth or disconnect them to see if you there's any change in the idle. If so, fix that bad connection. If could be a bad sensor as well, but not as likely.

      Less likely: The injectors often drip excess fuel into the cylinders. You can check this by loosening the locking ring on each injector, liftng the entire fuel rail out, placing a pan underneath, and running the electric fuel pump. Without the car running, no or minimal fuel should drip from the injectors. If so, you may need some new injectors. They can be replaced individually.

      The cold start injector is another likely culprit and should not drip or spray at all when the engine is even slightly warmed up. Easy to remove and check. Also try unplugging the wire from it altogether.

      Check your cap, points and rotor. Combinations fo factors can cause poor running.

      Thermal timer switches fail.








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