I'm working on the front suspension of my 240 and last night I tried to use a special tool from IPD to remove the top (22mm) nut from the rod of the strut cartridge. Instead of loosening the nut I was only able to bend the wrench. But I am not here to knock this product. Just to report my experience using it and offer a possible reason for it's failure.
I first tried the wrench by itself. It was obvious I was not going to loosen the nut this way. But there is a square 1/2" drive at one end so I decided to use a breaker bar. The only problem with this is the hole in the IPD wrench is not square with it's handle. It's 45 degrees off. This causes the breaker to be at that angle to the wrench. I was using a large adjustable wrench on the flats of the rod. When I exerted some force on the breaker bar the effect was to slightly bend the specialized wrench. So I removed the breaker and used the ratchet handle with a 2' length of pipe over the whole apparatus. I succeeded only in bending the wrench to the point where it is pretty much useless as is.
I believe the wrench should work under normal circumstances. The nut is intended to have only 15 ft lb torque. I am supposing that the existing top nut was over tightened by someone who previously serviced the car, probably by wailing away at it with an impact wrench. I don't know that for sure but I'd like to give IPD the benefit of the doubt as I think this is a procedure where some mechanics get a bit carried away. I did leave a message via the IPD website and suggested that the handle of the wrench could stand to be stronger. I am not the only one who might encounter this condition. It makes no difference since I intend to keep the wrench. A friend of mine should be able to straighten it and strengthen the handle.
I may yet have to use an impact wrench to loosen the damn nut. But under no circumstances will I use one to reinstall the new insert. Air tools are nice but not for this application.

This wrench has now been straightened and it should work fine for installation. But I really do expect better from a place as highly regarded as IPD. That metal is just too damn soft.

IPD has been good, but slow, about replacing bad tool parts for me. I can't slam them about not standing up to their product. However, the one the gets me is when my daughter ordered the throttle body kit for her 240. For $18.00 and shipping costs to Alaska, she got a .75 cent gasket, can of carb cleaner (like I buy for $6.99) and parts cleaner brush (like I but for $3.50). However the gasket was good quality.

I had to use air to remove factory nut and install the nylock nuts when installing the bilsteins or else the piston spins. Also had to expand the spring with the compressor to tighten.
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92 244 lowered, Bilsteins, IPD sways, Unitek cam/header, TSW Revo 18x8's - 94 965 Niiice MONEY PIT! - 76 Datsun 280Z lowered, modified head, cam, headers, intake

yeah some yokel got on it with an air impact wrench...idiots....

drive over, I'll loosen yours with my impact wrench...
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www.fidalgo.net/~brook4

Thanks, Paul, but it would be one hell of a long drive, although I am in the mood to travel.
However, my next door neighbor has air tools and an extension hose that should reach all the way to my garage (car is on jackstands with the wheels off an steering disconnected) and has offered to help. If I can just catch him at home.

Using an impact wrench is fine for removinal. To save some agita for the next strut job, get some thick washers - about 1/4 to 3/8 total thickness - and put these on the threaded spindle before the locknut goes on. This spaces the nut high enough so you can grab it with a normal box wrench.

This is good advice. I think I will do it that way.

Be sure those washers are hardened steel. I wouldn't want to take a chance
since that is the weight of the car and suspension loads pass through there.
Also I've had the Volvo Special tool for the struts break the center holder
piece because of mongo people putting the strut on with air tools. At the time I
didn't have a compressor. I bought an electric impact driver and it works
fantastic. It's a De Walt and was about $170. I use it to take the strut
apart and use the Volvo tool only for assembly. Also if I remember correctly
the torque on that nut is 55lb ft. The small 13mm nuts that hold the mount
to the body are torqued to 15lb ft. Sometimes you must hold the shaft from
turning even with the impact driver. I just clamp vise grips on the shaft
since you are throwing the old strut away. Wish you well.

Dave 82 242ti

Thanks, Dave. Strength of materials seems to be a big problem for me lately. I will double check that torque value. Most likely I was looking at the wrong one.