Where do I start. Well, my 88 240dl never started on the first try, it always takes at lest 3 trys to get it to fire up? one day it just would not start.I checked it out as best as i could, (via: spark,fuel check). I had fuel because the plugs were wet, so i checked the electrics. I had spark at the coil, at the cap/rotor but only a faint spark(almost nothing)at the plug. I ended up replacing: coil, wires, cap/rotor, and plugs. Still, the car would not start. So, i took it to a shop to have it diagnosed. After a few days, the said they THINK its the hual-effect sensor in the distributor. So they found a used distributor after about a week of searching($100). After the first one they found was no good. They installed it and still the car was dead. So, now they said it was the computer($300). 4 weeks into this, still nothing after the computer was installed. The mechanic said that somthing burned up most of the electronics. He found a burn spot in one of the wires that run to the ignition computer under the hood, behind the headlight. After he taped this up, they were getting a descent spark, but now they are getting negitive(-) signal on both sides of the injectors. Too make this long story short. I ended up buying a new started also, because that allegidly burned up. They adjusted the timing and got it running. But it was still wasnt starting on the first try, but more like three trys. This happened twice. And now it wont start at all once again. After 6 weeks at the shop. And $$$$$ later,the brick is dead.
So, Im taking it back up to the shop. Please someone help me with this financial/time nightmare.
thanks

These mechanics are morons. Typical that people who don't work on Volvos can't figure out the first thing about them. It's a simple fuel injection system guys! Didn't you have to learn ANYTHING to get ASE certified?
Ok, /RANT.

First of all, computers in 85-88 Volvos rarely if ever fail. There is always a question with so-called "88's" that you need to verify the manufacture date:
If a car is made from August of 1987 to July of 1988, it's a 1988. If it's built from August of 1988 to July of 1989, it's a 1989. It's very important because the fuel injection has some pretty significant changes between 1988 and 1989. Another way to tell is the VIN: a 1989 has a "K" as the 10th digit- a 1989 has a "J". Just to make 100% sure that we all know what we're talking about.
Anyway, since the "mechanics" went after the distributor, I assume it really is a 1988. The 89 has nothing in the distributor other than the rotor.
That could be- the hall effect device isn't eternal, but it is damn reliable. The connector to it could act up and give the same problems. That could be it, but I'd check a bunch of other stuff first because it's more likely.
First of all, if the computer didn't solve it, tell them to take it back out. You don't need it because it probably isn't bad. Sorry, but a $300 part ought to get you closer to the answer. There is however a power stage in the fender that powers the coil, that DOES go bad, and can cause no spark. That could be $75. A used one would be cheap. (Or free, not that I'm recommending you put things in your pocket at the local pick-n-pull, which is where the "mechanics" got your $300 computer for $50.) MAybe pick up a power stage, and say "try this, my dad had one laying around in his garage". They'll probably say "what's that?" and if they do, start planning your escape.... Anyone working on this car ought to know about that unit.
OK, what else? If the plugs are wet, the distributor trigger is getting to the fuel computer (though not necessarily the ignition computer). SO that wasn't it. The coil itself could have failed. Occasionally they give acceptable test numbers with an ohm-meter but yet can't deliver a good spark. A good used coil again should be a cheap and readily available junkyard part. Don't buy a new one, especially one that doesn't say "BOSCH" or VOLVO on it.
The wiring harness.... well your car is probably due for a replacement. I've seen cases where simply handling the fat harness that goes over to the ignition computer in the RF fender causes a no-start situation (and corrects it!) It's worth disconnecting that ignition computer, and inspecting the plug, and maybe even moving the wires while cranking the engine. You don't really want to know what a new harness costs, but you need to evaluate how bad this one is if there is in fact any deterioration. There are used ones available for sale or in junkyards sometimes. Kind of a big job but you could do it yourself and save a bundle of money on labor. Hope you don't need one.
One other thing I'd try just because... unplug the air mass meter and try to start it. If it idles (it may not accelerate at all) then that's the problem. Again try to find a used one- new they're too expensive. DOn't plug or unplug with the key on.
I hope some of this helps.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '86 244DL- 215K, 87 244DL- 230K, 88 744GLE- 198K, 91 244 180K

Look at the tag on the driver's door (has the VIN number, etc) and get the month the car was manufactured. (it should say something like "3/88" for March of 1988, etc.) Now, with your month and year, call the local Volvo dealership and ask them when they switched the wiring harness from the bad harness to the new 'improved' harness.

You may have wires that are decaying and shorting against themselves -and these may be hidden inside the harness sheath. This would be my first place to start.

Also, be wary of non-certified Volvo mechanics. Ask them what service & repair books they are using. Bentley? Volvo-Green? (factory book) How many Volvos do they see in a month, etc. I take my adivse from the local Volvo dealership and a local specialist who only works on imports (and about 20% are Volvos).
--
'87 Blue 245, NA 214K

Hey the nightmare isn't the car, its the mechanics working on it. Get the car away from them and find someone who will diagnose the thing. Just bolting on parts to see what happens isn't going to help. Pay them what they want, take someplace else to get it fixed, then take them to court with the evidence of what the problem really was.
That car isn't fixable from the board here.

Thanks everyone!
I have the car back, i went ahead and payed them and i am currently talking to a lawyer as we speak. It has been starting, but the it only seems to start when i mess with the relay under the glovebox. Is that the fuel pump relay? I did notice that when the guy from the shop had a push button starter hooked up to it under the hood, it would start on the first try. But when he hooked up the ignition, it took a few times till it would start. Did the push button bypass something? Anyways, Im scraping up a few bucks to take it to a volvo certified shop.
Thanks again

the wiring and connectors from the computer to the distributor are very weak point. on earlier cars, i dont know off hand which year they changed it, the replacement computer uses a differnt connector type and the harnes must be changed with the computer, or it will not connect properly. maybe they forgot to change the harness. it sounds like yo may have more than one problem, but for sure i would take it to a volvo mechanic and not back to the machanic that did the original work.

TooBig,
I would repost the technical aspect of your problem and address it to Aye Roll, Rhaire, Art Bernstein, & Chris Herbst... with a major Help Me Please attached. There are other knowledgable guys on the BrickBoard too, but it seems that they frequent this site more often. It sounds to me like the "mechanic(s)" laked the electrical skills neccessary to fix your ride...

Perhaps find a mechanic that knows what the crap he's doing!

Maybe try a compression test and test the injectors. Hope this helps.

Charles

allen820: I actualy threatend the idea of pulling my car out of this particular shop, but because of the work he had already done, he was talking about lawyers and keeping my car. I just dont need those kind of set backs right now. But I do agree, i wish i would have takin it to a person that actualy knew what they were doing.
beetle29: Thanks, but all was checked? what ever this problem(s)is, it definatly is not common. I cant find any post on brickboard that are simmilar in problem. I wish it was something as simple as the fuel pump relay. who knows it might be?

That's pretty stupid, he's talking about lawyers and keeping your car. You should be the one talking about lawyers, this guy is screwin you, not the other way around! As previously mentioned, it sounds like he's lacking in skills.

Greg
--
http://home.earthlink.net/~greg.wong/

Let him keep it. What's he going to do with it? Fix it and sell it?