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Can anybody recomend a rubbing compound or something to try to smooth out the paint on the roof and hood of my '84 240 diesel, and recomendations on how to properly use.
Would an electric buffer be a good investment?
Before I revived the thing from a boneyard, some rocket scientist decided to scrape the old moldy leaves off of it with a broom and left the top surfaces heavily scratched.
Thanks--------
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-------Robert, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel , '80 245 diesel
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I am using the dual action polisher from Porter-Cable which is featured in the Griot's Garage catalog. www.griots.com
Nice model. but it seems to take forever to get any polishing done because it is so easy on the print. Faster than hand polishing, though. I even use it with 3M's Imperial Hand Glaze, which is supposed to be a hand application.
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1989 740Ti 1986 240DL 1984 244GL
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posted by
someone claiming to be Done it for years
on
Sat Apr 12 09:12 CST 2003 [ RELATED]
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Hi, we use a Wen profesional orbital polisher - worth about $100. Always work in the shade. When cleaning for spring, we use UAP wax and grease remover, apply by rag. Wash the car. Then use the polisher to apply one coat of 3m super fine rubbing compound. Let dry & buff with polisher. Next, we use Liquid Glass. It is a synthetic polish. We generally use two coats applied by polisher, buff after each coat. Finally, we do two coats of carnuba wax, buffing after each coat. I do this once in spring, and again in the fall.
The polishes and rubbing compounds take a small bit of the paint off, but this cleans the paint, making it look new. Because they are synthetic, polishes do not build up, which wax does. Wax, does not sand it, but seals well. Discreetly ask at a local detail shop what they use, and see if they will sell you 500ml. It may sound like a lot of work, but once you know wht to do, it becomes easy, taking a day or so. Hope this helps.
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I read both of the other posts. My suggestion would be to
GO EASY!! You don't want to go through the paint or leave it too thin!!
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George Downs, The "original" Walrus3, Bartlesville, Oklahoma
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I tried it on the trunk lid first because I'm going to replace it anyway (dented )unfortunately the scratches were too deep to salvage.
Next project, learning how to paint ( it's nice having a few cheap cars to experiment on )!
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-------Robert, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel , '80 245 diesel
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What'd I tell you???
There's NO substitute for experience. Fortunately sometimes you can gain
experience on things where downturns in performance are less than
disastrous though.
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George Downs, The "original" Walrus3, Bartlesville, Oklahoma
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wet sand with 1000 grit and then hi speed buff with 3m compound and a sheilg#1 wool pad or miguires red foam pad then use automagic BC2 with a clean schlig #1 wool pad than hand rub using the same automagic BC2 you could claybar paint first dont use the spray that comes with the clay use water the thing with buffing is to start with a lot of presher than buff lighter and lighter till a gloss and most people use to much compound witch is a mess
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i always buff in sunlight to see swirls that are put on with the buffer to do in sun you must be fast. buffing dont remove paint wet sanding does. buffing heats up paint to expell contaminents from the paint. the only paint that is removed is oxidized paint witch should of been wet sanded first as this will clog a pad. when people go threw the paint it called burning the paint most of time its the edges that get burned this is sometimes connfused with removeing paint. its burning the pigment of paint to a clear. yes if you stop buffer while its spinning and leave it there the heat builds up and softens paint and then it gets burned off. as im in sun i can watch swirls come and then i can see them leave when. you hand rub this must be done in shade cause of time it takes to do the wax / compound will harden up in sunlight also for dark paints there is a good product i use for swirls its called plum crazzy and its by MALLICO for dark paints
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posted by
someone claiming to be chemical engineer
on
Sat Apr 12 14:21 CST 2003 [ RELATED]
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One should NEVER apply these products in the sun. The metal on a car gets very hot. because polish and rubbing compound is often solvent based, the product will not cure properly if applied to a hot surface, and a certain amount will evaporate on contact. Further, many polishes and waxes are multi-part compounds which will separate on contact if the surface is too hot. Polish and wax require the same treatment as paint. One needs a cool, dry surface, that is free of dirt, and the appropriate temperature for it to dry or cure properly. Both waxes and polishes must cure to work properly, and this can only be done if they are applied to a dry, cool surface in the shade. Check out the FAQ, 900 which speaks directly to this.
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Just curious,
What is the effect on these products (compounds,polishes, waxes) if they become frozen, say, from being left all winter in an unheated garage?
(I can already tetify that the plastic bottles become very brittle and break open if dropped onto the garage floor!)
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1989 740Ti 1986 240DL 1984 244GL
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I would suggest using 3M micro-finishing compound. Due to the age of the paint on your car--I would do it by hand if its the just the roof that needs attention. You could use the compound by hand applying with a clean sponge. Do a small area at a time, working the compound into the paint. Before the compound drys--use a clean cloth and continue rubbing till the product is gone. Rinse the sponge out with water as you go along and change or flip the rag often. After compounding--use a qaulity liquid handglaze--3Ms or Mequires--both excellent products in the same way--clean sponge to apply and clean cloth to remove and buff. The handglaze will bring the gloss back up--the compound is more of a cleaner/leveler. After handglaze--if swirl marks are persent--you could use a swirl remover--although you really should need it when working by hand. If touching up with paint is rqd for the deep scratches do it after the handglaze. The last thing would be to apply a coat of polish/wax of your choosing--good luck and do this in the shade
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Thanks, I tried this this afternoon on the trunk (it's going to be replaced anyway ) and it looks like there isn't enough paint left to work with.
The areas where there was still enough paint, it looks much nicer, but some of those broom scratches were more like gouges.
It looks like I'm going to have to break down and paint it. This ought to be fun.
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-------Robert, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel , '80 245 diesel
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