Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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Brake ?s... 140-160 1968

On the ALLOEMVOLVOPARTS.com they have different rotors for carb vs. FI 140s. What is the difference? Are they interchangeable? And, I need new calipers so will the newer (69 on) 140 rear girlings bolt right on? Also, if I order just the front ATE calipers and rotors for a 164 will I be able to bolt them onto my car w/out doing anything else??? Thanks guys, any and ALL info appreciated.
Later,
Kyle








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Brake ?s... 140-160 1968

Vented rotors for (fuel injected) "E" types, solid rotors for carb'd 140's. Basically.

Why change to 164 brake parts?








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Brake ?s... 140-160 1968

I was wondering because I wanted to upgrade to the vented rotors. But if it requires modifying, or costs too much more I'll just stay with the stock Girlings all around...
Later,
Kyle








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Brake ?s... 140-160 1968

hey, check my post on your "240 turbo axle and brakes on 142" question. doing this sort of thing always seems to get more involved as you get into it. just make sure you have all your parts and compatibility figured out before you order anything. it's always fun to put on new parts, especially upgraded ones,,like a GM alternator:) Brad M.








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Brake ?s... 140-160 1968

There is a difference between carbed and injected rotors.I think it is the thickness,(it was pointed out to me years ago but I forgot)neither are vented.For what it's worth here's how I've set up my brakes on 3 different 140's.Go with 164 vented front rotors and calipers.They are a direct bolt on.You will also want to change the front wheel studs.164 studs are longer.you can bolt a wheel on with the 140 studs but it's dicey.When I got into volvos 15 years ago rear calipers were plentiful but it seems they are drying up.Use 240 rear calipers with your stock 140 rotors.You will need to change the brakeline fitting at the caliper end and drill the caliper mounting holes very slightly larger.The offset is correct and the pad contact patch will remain the same.Brake pads will be available everywhere! When I first did my swap on my most recent car they didn't stop as well as the other cars I did.I had bolted on all the parts used (pads were like new so I went with them)I bought new rotors and (metal master) pads and it was a day and night difference.Don't skimp get new rotors and decent pads! (and I'm NOT running a brake booster!) With boosted brakes and the parts I listed you'll be amazed.I think the metal masters make a huge difference but people will tell you you'll have a hard pedal etc.I think they're nuts.Even my adorable wife can operate those non boosted brakes just fine so double check the hand shake on people bashing them!








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Brake ?s... 140-160 1968

I'm a big fan of the MetalMasters too... "hard pedal" as in "doesn't feel mushy," not as in "requires more effort." They work even better when they get a bit hot, but I didn't notice any increase in effort cold.







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