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In-tank Pump Removal Question 200 1981

1981 242: I'm removing the in-tank fuel pump to replace the little hose and to replace the o-ring where the unit mounts to the tank. Bentley says," From under the car, disconnect the fuel return hose from the metal return line and plug the return line opening." I did this, and have disconnected everything at the assembly in the trunk except this line. At the top of the transfer pump/fuel gauge sending unit assembly, where the three hoses connect on the outside of the tank, the center and the passenger-side hoses disconnected easily. They were held with normal hose clamps. The hose on the driver's side is the one that goes to the metal line under the car and is the one I'm asking about.

Questions:

Does this hose, the one on the driver's side of the transfer pump/fuel gauge sending unit assembly, have to be disconnected at the fuel tank in order to get the assembly out of the car?? Since Bentley says to disconnect it under the car, I thought maybe you are supposed to be able to pull it out through the access hole in the trunk, along with the assembly itself. To do this I'll have to bend the hose quite a bit.

If I have to disconnect it at the assembly in the trunk, should I cut it or what? It seems to be held on only by friction. Is this type of hose readily available?

This is a first for me so lots of questions. You guys that have done this: What's the right way?
'
--
Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock, M46; 86 240, 130K








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In-tank Pump Removal Question 200 1981

I got the assembly out of the tank without cutting the plastic line. Thanks for the advice. Get this: No sign of a filter sock: not in the tank, not on the pump, not anywhere.

Also, no o-ring between the assembly and the body, none whatsoever. No wonder I was getting gas smells whenever the tank was full or nearly full! I imagine the PO drove for quite a while like that. I know I've driven the car about 1300 miles since I got it. I have a new 0-ring and I'll go get a new sock filter.

Question: The hose is not clamped. Does it need to be?
--
Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock, M46; 86 240, 130K








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In-tank Pump Removal Question 200 1981

Sounds like you've already accomplished the difficult part- separating the fitting underneath the car. As Randy and Rhys relate, this is normally very weak from corrosion.

Getting the assembly out of that little hole with the hose attached is possible, but it helps to be very aware the line is hard plastic protected by a soft rubber sleeve as you begin to guide it past the opening. You might want to cover the tank opening with a rag to keep any chunks of undercoating from finding it.

If you find yourself in trouble, this is just the return line and not high pressure. You could replace a short section as Randy described, or even all the way from the metal line up to the assembly barb with 5/16 fuel rated hose.

--
Art Benstein near Baltimore








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In-tank Pump Removal Question 200 1981

You'll need to disconnect that hose under the car. Two flare nut wrenches, or at least one, will be required. If the car has seen much salt then they could be a big pain. Some release easily though. Then the hose is curled back and it comes out the access hatch with the sender and pump assembly.








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In-tank Pump Removal Question 200 1981

When I last changed out one of these I found the fitting on the metal line was rusted so that even though I was able to break the fitting loose I could not revolve it on the metal line- therefore I was unable to detach it. I cut the metal line. I did this in an area that was easy to slip a short piece of fuel hose over one end and and then slip the other end in before adding a hose clamp on each side of the cut.

That hose did not come off of the top of the unit you are removing. I think that once you have that hose loose AND the lock ring off you will be able to move the unit into a position that will make it reltively easy to pull the hose up and out of the opening in the trunk.

Make sure the ground tab on the unit is in good shape before you reinstall it. Or make provisions for a good ground from the top of the unit to the body so everything works as designed. Rust is normally a problem in this area.

Randy








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In-tank Pump Removal Question 200 1981

this is the hose i was asking about and after i read your e-mail i looked under car and under my 240DL is same conection as at pump its only 1ft long and 1/4inch inner diamiter and yes can get at auto store (under that ruber hose protecter is a hard plastic hose i cut it at drivers side at tank nipple the other end is above the rear end you can unscrew it or cut it of and you will get a piece of tubing 1ft long ) hope this helps and thanks for your help







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