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Brake Problem - MC or booster? 200 1984

posted by  chris on  Sat Apr 5 08:33 CST 2003
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last visit: Mon Dec 18 04:58 CST 2000
[RELATED]

In the last few days, my 1984 245 has lost a lot of brake power. There's excessive pedal travel, the brakes are soft, and the Brake Failure light comes on.

The only other times this has happened, it's been from a fluid leak somewhere. NO LEAKS at this time, however.

I'm suspecting the MC, or possibly the booster.

Any ideas? I don't want to replace the MC or booster unless I have to, obviously.

Rear pads are quite new, by the way.

The car has 224,000 on it, and this may be the original MC/Booster. I assume I'm past the normal life span for a MC?








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    Brake Problem - MC or booster? 200 1984

    posted by  someone claiming to be Rhys on  Sat Apr 5 09:15 CST 2003 [RELATED]

    If the fluid level is OK, then it is the master cylinder bypassing internally. You may find a bit of fluid running down the front of the booster underneath the master as well. Common problem, easily fixed.








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      Brake Problem - MC or booster? 200 1984

      posted by  chris on  Sun Apr 6 01:46 CST 2003
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      last visit: Mon Dec 18 04:58 CST 2000
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      So...How does one fix it? Rebuild the MC, or what?








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        Brake Problem - MC or booster? 200 1984

        posted by  someone claiming to be Rhys on  Sun Apr 6 06:30 CST 2003 [RELATED]

        Don't rebuild it - it is best to replace it. New ones come with a resevoir, so there is no risk of "cross contamination" either.
        Lots of aftermarket sources for OE master cylinders. And they are easily bled on the "bench" so there is no need to bleed the system at the wheels.








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          Brake Problem - MC or booster? 200 1984

          posted by  chris on  Sun Apr 6 07:32 CST 2003
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          last visit: Mon Dec 18 04:58 CST 2000
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          Thanks - wanted to make sure there was no other way to cure this than to replace the unit. I've done a couple of MCs before, on other cars; getting the system bled through is definitely the biggest hassle. You're sure right about bench-bleeding being a big help, but I inevitably get air into the system somewhere and still need to bleed at the wheels.








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            Brake Problem - MC or booster? 200 1984

            posted by  someone claiming to be Rhys on  Sun Apr 6 08:50 CST 2003 [RELATED]

            Here's what I do. Buy a length of premade brake pipe in the metric size needed and cut in half. Slide some hose onto each piece and install the pipes in master and bend and place the hoses into the resevoir. Fill and slowly operate the MC from release to bottom until the bubbles stop. Quickly install the blanking plugs back into the master and install on the booster. Bleed the MC at the pipe fittings as if they were bleed screws (takes two people). I have never pulled a wheel doing them this way, and I have done dozens. I am sure you will be successfull - and it takes about 20 minutes.







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              Brake Problem - MC or booster? 200 1984

              posted by  someone claiming to be DaveinNY on  Mon Apr 7 05:45 CST 2003 [RELATED]

              Just a thought but, if you havent changed your brake fluid in a while it might be a good time. I use the synthetic dot4. It doesnt absorb moisture out of the air causing rust and failures. Dave.







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