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hello everyone.

Hello, can anyone give me some advise as to what to look for when looking over a volvo 242 glt? It is a dark blue '83 242 glt with 235,000 miles. Additionaly, its in semi-rough shape. power steering is out, sunroof is out, and starter relay is inconsistent.Any other common trouble spots with these cars? I am going to do the obvious like compression test, thorough examination, but hey, its an old car I know relatively little about. I love the way the thing looks. I've never had a volvo, but do like to turn wrenches. In the event I do get it, there are a few dedicated volvo junkyards here, so thats nice. Tentatively looking forward to joining the volvo world.
Thanks in advance for any input.
Jeremy Soltow








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    hello everyone... sunroof

    Unless the 240 is vastly different than a 740, you do not have to remove the sunroof to repair the motor.

    On a 740, it is under a plastic cover above the mirror. It drives the roof by gear, and can be closed in an emergengy with a phillips screwdriver. See if your 240 is the same.

    Converting a 740 to a hand crank is fast and easy, I paid $15 for all the crank parts. I think that a hand crank is better and faster than a motor!

    I suspect that the sunroof has some other problem.

    I have found that my RWD Volvos are relatively easy to repair, but new parts are expensive. Keep in mind that most Volvos cost the same as Cadillac of the same vintage, and parts for a good car are made well and are costly
    --
    3 8s & 2 7s 740,000 miles total








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    hello everyone. 200 1983

    Hi Jeremy-
    There's a wealth of information here, as I'm sure you're realizing. NArrow things down by reading just the "200" forums, and also you can select year and model when you're posting, so it winds up in the correct forum so the experts see it. Some great basic information which *mostly* applies to this car, can be found under Features - 700/900FAQ, then look for "Buying a 700/900". They're mechanically very similar to 240s.
    Now, you're looking at a 20 year old car- it won't be perfect, but you don't want one so bad that it's a money pit. Body repair, unless you can weld, fill, sand, and paint, is NOT going to be cheap. It may need to be completely professionally repaired just in order to pass state safety inspection... depends where you are. With this car, the most likely place for rust is the floors, rocker panels, and spare tire wells behind the rear wheels. Occasionally cars also rot the bottoms of the doors, leading edge of the hood, and around the windshield frame. Floor and rocker rust is structural- it needs professional attention. Everything else is cosmetic... what are you willing to put up with/how much can you fix/does it need to be perfect? Check prices for such repairs before you buy, if you find that they're needed.

    The other important items would be the engine wiring harness, and the turbo. At this age, I'm *sure* the wiring has been replaced. If it hasn't it will be in noticably poor condition. The insulation literally falls off the wires, crumbling. Likewise the turbo- at this mileage, the original turbo has probably been replaced at least once, and might be due again. Hopefully it was upgraded to the later (740) style watercooled turbo. It's kind of a big-ticket item, so you want to find out about it's service history. Turbos can last a long time, but most people are in too much of a hurry to let them warm up and cool off properly, and end up damaging the turbo itself.

    Inside the car, everything is repairable by you with normal hand tools. The heater/AC fan is the biggest pain if it's on it's way out. The dash is built around the heater box and it's a lot of work to replace a fan. Hopefully it doesn't squeal and does run on all 4 speeds.

    It's a cool car, and there aren't a lot of them left- good luck!
    --
    Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: "Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!"








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      hello everyone. 200 1983

      What makes you think it even has a turbo? Remember the non-turbo GLTs of that era.








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        hello everyone. 200 1983

        It is a turbo. the body is rust free as far as I can see, as its a seattle car, although there is a large area of missing paint on the hood. I'm going to be more concerned with getting it running right. Is wiring a serious problem on these? I go test drive tomorrow. Anyone want to estimate how much its worth?
        Thanks for responding guys.
        Jeremy








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          hello everyone. 200 1983

          Yes, the wire harness is almost sure to need replacement if it has not yet been. $250 DIY but not too bad. An old beat up turbo can really make a mechanic out of you. It can take a ton of money and effort to restore to glory.








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            hello everyone. 200 1983

            Any thoughts on the power steering pump and rack? Are they rebuildable, or is it more worth my time to replace them. Also, what is a good compression for a 235000 mile b21ft(im assuming this is the engine in this car)? Sunroof is bad, I'm guessing its the motor. Love to hear your thoughts on this.
            thanks,
            jeremy








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              hello everyone. 200 1983

              The rebuilt racks are very reasonable ($200) from WWW.jorgenauto.com, you do have a B21FT and compression will be lower than in a non-turbo. I am surprised you have a sunroof motor, as that is pretty rare in a 240. Most have a manual crank.







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