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Bloody top nut on the strut!!!

posted by  sandkv on  Wed Apr 2 12:39 CST 2003
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I have the new Bilstiens and all the tools except one... Doing the job at Easter.
Ok I have read extensively on this topic here and elsewhere and I can not find a tool to buy for this job. I am not confident of finding a friendly mechanic near my house to spin it off whith an air wrench.
The latest suggestion I have from a friend who was an ex-mechanic is to put a set of vice grips or a stilson wrench through the coils of the spring and hold the shaft while I use my pipe wrench on the top. This seems reasonable has anyone done this?
Should I try to do this with the struts attached at the base or just bite the bullet and rip the whole thing out so I can do it on the bench?
Any help much appreciated
Karl







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    Bloody top nut on the strut!!!

    posted by  someone claiming to be Skip on  Thu Apr 3 01:48 CST 2003 [RELATED]

    ipd is currently selling a strut nut removal tool for $18. I use air myself and have done fine numerous times. If you remove the bolt that holds the brake hose bracket to the inner fender well, you can get enough room to replace the struts without disconnecting the bottom. It helps to disconnect the sway bar end link.

    Skip
    '93 850GLT
    '89 765T
    '83 242TI Flathood








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    Bloody top nut on the strut!!!

    posted by  chris herbst on  Wed Apr 2 16:05 CST 2003
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    last visit: Mon Oct 20 20:32 CST 2014
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    Weird. Finding a deep offset box end wrench is almost impossible. But in the States at least, you can get strut removal kits for about $25US. Pretty easy.

    The problem with holding the center shaft is that there is the top shock seal to worry about. If you can get higher on the shaft than where it can bottom out inside the shock, then you're home free. But if you etch the center shaft, it's almost sure to spring a leak somewhere.

    If you do it on the bench, it might be easier access-wise. Once you break the nut loose, put the spring compressor on and finish like that. But watch your face. I hate working around spring compressors.
    --
    chris herbst, near chicago








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      Bloody top nut on the strut!!!

      posted by  sandkv on  Wed Apr 2 18:17 CST 2003
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      Thanks Chris,
      I do not care about the shaft of the old shocks, I will be throwing them away anyway. For the new ones I have a long hex I can put inside the pipe wrench to hold the shaft. So all I am worried about is getting them off.
      To remove the whole tower I just remove the caliper (hang it up somewhere), the control arm and the lower ball joint right? Sounds too simple.
      Thanks
      Karl








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        Bloody top nut on the strut!!!

        posted by  chris herbst on  Thu Apr 3 14:19 CST 2003
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        last visit: Mon Oct 20 20:32 CST 2014
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        My suggestion was going to be exactly the same as below; cut the bracket and let the caliper hang away from the strut assembly. Then it takes only a matter of minutes to get the whole thing out of the car. It usually only takes me a few minutes for the 700/900 struts, to remove them from the car. Then I hike them over to the local shop and have them do them in a spring compressor.
        --
        chris herbst, near chicago








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        Bloody top nut on the strut!!! 200

        posted by  Aye Roll on  Thu Apr 3 00:05 CST 2003
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        last visit: Tue Oct 14 21:08 CST 2014
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        That is too simple- you have to deal with the brake lines if you want to remove the whole tower. The lines go through the bracket under the spring perch. You either have to separate them (messy and requires a difficult bleeding of the system) or do what I do, and cut the brackets carefully with a dremel tool or grinder, then twist one part up, one part down and sneak the brake lines out of them. The metal lines are pretty flexible, and you can also remove the bracket against the inner fender to give yourself more working length on the hoses. Then you can get the caliper off the strut and hang it up after untangling the strut from the brake lines.
        Also, you'll have to remove the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle. I use a pickle fork with good results. IF it chews up the tie rod boot, oh well, the end is only $10.
        --
        Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: "Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!"








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        Bloody top nut on the strut!!!

        posted by  sandkv on  Wed Apr 2 18:18 CST 2003
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        by the way.
        Who do you buy these kits from you mentioned?







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          Bloody top nut on the strut!!!

          posted by  chris herbst on  Thu Apr 3 14:21 CST 2003
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          last visit: Mon Oct 20 20:32 CST 2014
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          Around here it's Autozone or that kind of place. The places that sell automotive tools geared for do it yourself alley repair jobs. Most of the stuff isn't the best quality, but I bought one waaaaaay back when I was just messing around with cars, and believe it or not, I still have it. It's nice if I want to screw around and don't have air handy.
          --
          chris herbst, near chicago







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