I have a 240 DL 1988 and the rear indicators alway fail. I have replaced the circuit circuit board where all the lights connect but it still fails. Does anyone have any suggestions?

If the light bulbs ever come out cracked, or frosted white, you're getting water in the lights. The fix is, replace the whole assembly ($$) or drill a small hole into the bottom outside corner of the light. I can't tell you how many we've fixed like this. Common problem and it saves the light for a couple of years. A 3/32 drill is good size to use. Probably a bunch of water will come out when you drill it. This doesn't keep the water from getting IN, just gives it somewhere to go OUT!
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: "Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!"

Always suspect the connection point from harness onto circuit board.

With the car set up so that the suspect light(s) should be on but aren't, watch the light as you rock, jiggle, and wiggle that connestor. Inside the connector the contacts get weak and fail to grip the circuit board. I've seen where the temperatures generated by such a weak contact burned a hole int eh coper foil.

Hope this helps.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Thanks to all I will try the fix suggested.

Are both sides out? I've got an 88 and the drivers side taillights went out. Would come back on whenever they wanted, but I couldn't count on when they would. My simple investigation ended up pointing me in the direction of the bulb out relay as being the root cause. I ended up splicing into the passenger side wiring and running a jumper wire to power the taillights on the drivers side. Now let me say, at all times my other driver side lights worked, i.e. the brake lights, turn signal, and backup lights. Just the running lights wouldn't work. What does a multimeter say when you touch the copper strips on the membrane? If you have power then something funky must be going on with the bulbs. If you have no power to the strips start coming back up the wires to the fuses and then to the bulb out relay.