The 1988 244GL wifemobile flunked, and not by just a hair. Engine was thoroughly heated.



What____________25 mph___________________15 mph (tested on dynamometer)

HC---------want 174---- got 414 -------want 180, got 407
CO---------want 1.12 -- got 2.36-------want 1.01 got 2.41
NOx--------want 1258 -- got 2775-------want 1378 got 2759


New parts: O2, Engine temp sender, plugs, rotor, cap, wires, Mobil 1, timing belt.
Valve lash is off and audible. Exhaust smells rich. Will a new cat be enough?


Thanks in advance,

Bob

:>)

which might help more than just me.

All the posts you guys have sent are in the hopper. What's new came from a long chat with a Volvo indie shop owner, while he showed me his 740Ti mods that get him 300hp (!) Has 5.0 Mustangs for breakfast.

I explained the high everything test results, and the random at-any-speed hiccup or miss. He mentioned (1) vacuum leak, the hardest to find being one in the intake manifold rail, between the points for the bolt holes. Also (2) using a lap tester (sic phonetic) on each injector. If bad, replace all four, $98 per.

New cat would help high NOx but not the high HC or CO. So I'm off to install a new Volvo FPR (dealer today, higher than fcpgroton, but I wanted it NOW) and then find a time I can get that injector test done.

ASAP I will get the lap test done. If injectors flunk, I am tempted to pull the fuel rail and injectors off a non-op 1983 B23. Parts book shows same p/n.

You agree?

Thanks and regards,

Bob

:>)

Do you really need the car ASAP?

If no, then go with Nick's FPR for the $40... and if the injectors fail (which I doubt is the problem here) have them cleaned and balanced. For less than the cost of one injector, you could have them all serviced at $20/ea.

- alex

'85 244 Turbo
'84 245 Turbo

Yes, I do need the car to pass the current emissoins test ASAP. If flunked last August. If it flunks again, they won't renew my regristation. The test is getting more stringent next month.

Also, the trip to the dealer was combined with a trip to pick up a eBay won item - baseball cap saying Volvo on it. Got it from a fellow who runs a Indie Volvo-only shop, took over from his Dad who did that work 30 years. He enjoyed showing me his black 745Ti, that, with mods, makes 300hp.

The amount I paid at the dealer for the new FPR was liek $51.00. I am still on their 10% discount list - many many purchases over 25 years of owning 240s.

I do appreciate your advice, and were it not for the time pressure I would have contacted Nick,

Regards,

Bob

:>)

Hi Bob,

Do you have a fresh air filter? Changing the filter made me pass on HCs & CO2.

(i've yet to pass on NOX). Hope its not a new cat for you, or me!

good luck,
susan.
--
Emperor for Life - Leaky Volvo Club of America (LVCOA)

It's gettng late. Is that a device the filters the fresh air? Or one that is sassy. HoHoHO

First, for other reasons I put in a new Fram 4365 a few weeks ago. (It's nice that all my Volvos use that filter - since the 1979 umpteen years ago)

But, for that to have an affect on two of the tested emissions is a
surprise. I will keep that one around. Gotta nother car to test - the 1986.

How are the leaks? I have to assume that the worst one is the drip of chilled rainwater from the sunroof seam over your left shoulder.

Regards,

Bob

:>)

If the exhaust smells rich, a new cat may help, but not for long.

I second that suggestion for the FPR. It's a $40 part, and fairly easy to replace. If you smell or see fuel in the vacuum line coming off of the FPR, you're in need of replacement.. of course testing the fuel pressure on an LH-Jet setup is pretty easy compared to $!@ K-Jetronic.

How's your fuel mileage?

- alex

pulled off the hose today and sniffed. Yoicks! Gasoline smell. Also, looking into the FPR end of the hose, it looks a teeny bit wet. Will a failed FPR allow fuel overpressure?

SO - next step is to replace that. I can get one from a dealer, or order one from a BBRD advertiser. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the great help.

Regards,

Bob

:>)

PS. The suggestion for correcting valve lash came from two Volvo techs, one at one of the Houston dealers, on at that email place.

I don't know if the red blocks got a fuel damper. According to Bentley's Bosch FI book the damper is supposed to prevent a failed pressure regulator from dumping fuel into the intake manifold... but I didn't see one on my friend's B230FT.

So yes, a failed FPR where the diaphragm is ruptured would allow fuel to be dumped right into the intake manifold at about 30 gallons per hour thru that vacuum line. Supposedly they can fail in a manner that would block off the return line and exert strain on the fuel pump... I imagine anywhere in between is possible as well.

I'd just buy a new Bosch one from FCP Groton. $40 and less.

- alex

1) Fuel pressure could be too high.
2) Massive vacuum leak- check the inlet air bellows hose.
3) Cat is definitely shot- new ones run about 120
4) You can reduce ALL of these and probably get it in spec if you set the timing to zero degrees advance. That's free and it just might be enough. The NOx is pretty high but you'll definitely see an improvement (it will be down on power).
Good luck with it!
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: "Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!"

Check the FAQ. I will bet that your fuel pressure regulator has some problems.

Bob, the laws of combustion will tell us that you can not have high CO, HC and NOX all at the same time. Period. CO and HCs are formed by air poor (rich) combustion, while NOX is formed in a high air (lean) burn. If the exhaust stinks I'd think that you are running rich, and a cat may help control NOX when you get the mixture leaned out a bit, but I'd suggest that you try another test station as a control.