The Dawes device is better than some in that it concentrates its LEDs on the important area rather than mostly providing a light show for the driver. But the resolution is still less than ideal when hundredths can make an important difference. You might get the light, but be at the bottom of the light's range and be lean. I would still tune with a voltmeter.

Don't check your pressure too far away; you want to know what it is near the regulator - you want to know what you have at the injectors, not elsewhere. Its what goes into the engine that is important. That is what you tune. You will have to get at the fitting. The Volvo plastic line is a real pain to work with. I believe it is 6mm, which is less than 1/4, but not by much. If you cannot separate the fittings, and you really should try more using PB Blaster and very good wrenches on both sides so you do not bend the pipe, then you can cut the hose about an inch before the fitting. You will find a hose barb underneath. You can fit 1/4 inch line over this hose barb. The problem will be further back, because you will then have to cut the Volvo line back a little further and put a splic in it. I recommend putting a T junction from the hardware store in there and plugging the fuel gauge into that. 1/8 NPT is usually the fitting for the gauges. You may or may not need a bigger T junction. You don't want to lose flow here. You would screw hose barb 1/4 into the junction and either the gauge or a pipe plug into the top. Use fuel injection hose to get back to the Volvo hose barb. The hard part is getting that 1/4 hose barb into the plastic Volvo hose. Good luck. Try heating the hose barb first and then work it in really fast. Lube the inside of the plastic hose with oil or something, also.

1V is too much. Very roughly, the Volvos seem to run between about 0.86 and 0.93 at full throttle and full load. Anything else and I would be concerned. You need to ground the Dawes device at the engine block, since that is where the 02 grounds (through the exhaust to the block).

You can buy a Vortech FMU or Super FMU from Summit. You would want a 4:1 rising rate. You can buy the Bell Engineering regulator from Corky Bell's company directly or from MVP Volvo in Portland, OR. Both probably cost $250 to $300. They will fairly reliably give you up to around 30-40% more fuel flow through the stock injectors. Stock, your injectors are good to around 225 hp, which might be around 16 psi on an otherwise stock motor. Beware that things usually start breaking on a 14 year old car when you double or more than double the stock boost and that you will probably have to start making repairs and further modifications and that this can get expensive.

Philip Bradley