I recently installed a crane ignition (XR 3000)and coil (PS 60) in my '67 B18 (replacing the points and coil with the armored cable). Can someone please tell me why:

1) my brand new tachometer won't read above 1000 rpm even when revving the motor?

2) why, when I had the original points setup the car would start right up on the first try-and now with the "super improved" electronic ignition replacement the engine turns over a number of times before catching?



COULD THIS BE BECAUSE OF A BALLAST RESISTOR STILL PRESENT IN MY IGNITION SYSTEM?

WHERE THE HELL IS THE BALLAST RESISTOR?

If it has a ballast resistor WIRE-how do I bypass it?


As you can see...I'm quite frustrated...any help would be appreciated!

Thanks for the responses everyone...

I'm at the end of my rope. After speaking to a knowledgeable tech at Crane Cams, we both have determined that most probably this tach is bad. However, the company that replaced the original workings of this older Smiths tach with brand new modern electronics, APT/Gaugeguys, has offered absolutley no help in this situation-and with ATTITUDE over the phone yet...I received the tach in the mail, hooked it up per instructions and $240.00 later-it doesn't climb above 1000RPM. I sent it back at my shipping expense, and 2 weeks later received it with no phone call or note enclosed as to what the problem was, and AGAIN it doesn't work. The people at APT said they can't do anything over the phone and need to see the tach again-becuase it was working perfectly when it left their shop. Huh? Did they even look at it when I sent it back? Thinking that the problem was on my end, I involved the Crane tech and troubleshooted with him for a day. EVERYTHING IS NORMAL ON MY END. The car starts and runs fine with the XR 3000 ignition and a PS 60 coil.

So people: let this be a warning to you all-don't trust just any company on the web for your vintage vehicle needs! I drilled a hole in my pristine 122 dash to mount this Smiths tach and I'm screwed...and out $240.00 plus double shipping.


Sorry about the ramblimg post but I feel I need to let this out somewhere...

Simmy,

Before you get complete twisted, I know I do some times, take a step back and do a simple test. If the original points, condenser, and coil are working, re-install them and see if the tach works with original Volvo ignition. If it does then your problem is with the Crane ignition compatibility, if not then it is the tach. Either way you get an answer.

Option two: Do you have any other 4 cylinder engine you can get the tach on. If so that would at least tell you if the tach has a problem.

Hope you figure it out, and please let us know what you find out.....

Good Luck

Oliver
1966 1800S

Also, since you now have two coil primary wires to keep track of, you've got to see that coil polarity is right.

Simmy .. I am in the process of installing an XR 700 with the original coil thanks to the diode wire that IPD supplies. The other thought that comes to mind is did you set the new tach for 4 cylinders? Usually they are equipped with a switch inside that will preset them for 4, 6 or 8 cylinders .......
--
Brett Sutherland & the 1.5 million mile 122 Canadian

Brett, the XR700 uses a ballast, which is in the original coil. The XR3000 must be used without a ballast, so using the original coil is not an option.

Simmy;

You don't mention specifically how you have things hooked up, and one can only presume you followed the Crane instructions in installing the new ignition system components (do these include hook-up for a ballastless system, did you install a ballast resistor for the new coil?), and your reasons for making the changesin the first place...if they were installed to repair a failed ignition system, or just because you felt you had to make some "super-improvements", but I am really tempted to make some snide, and totally non-productive comments about leaving well enough alone...

1. Do the instructions supplied with the Crane system cover a tach hook-up?

2. Depending on how it is wired to the Ign Sw (what type?), the non-catching may be due to the fact that the Accessory terminal has NO power connected during cranking. Does it catch only after you release from the Start postion? (See paragraph two below)

Also, it seems that you may infact need a ballast resistor with the new coil...in which case you may also need a new Ign Sw.

----------------------

Good info about Ballast resistors I recently came across at: http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Electrical/coil.htm

Purpose of Ballast Resistors from Brooks:
When the engine is running, you can get by fine with a lot less current at the points. That's the purpose of the ballast resistor. If the points were to receive full battery current/voltage at all times, they would only last a few hundred miles before needing replacement.

At the time of cranking (when the starter is operating), a separate wire gives the points the full 12 volts, bypassing the ballast resistor. When you release the key from "start" to "on", all the power to the points now has to flow thru the ballast resistor, preserving the points.

...more questions than answers! Cheers

Ron, the XR3000 must be used without a ballast (unlike the XR700). I don't know what the directions are like these days, but they used to include a special section on hooking up inductive Smiths tachs...

OTOH, Autometer tachs can't be hooked up conventionally with this system. Some sort of separate trigger box is required.

Without knowing what sort of tach is involved, I wonder if the tech hookup might be loading the coil. Simmy, we need more details.

The ballast resistor on a 122 is built into the coil. So if you changed
coils, you probably don't have one.

I don't know anything about the Crane system except that most folks say
they are good. Likewise your tach. But you might have it hooked up
wrong. I've had 73 model cars with tachs read 1000 rpm as soon as I turned
on the switch, before I started the engine. Normally your tach should
be driven off the negative side of the coil, since the positive side is
always hot, so you won't get any speed sensing there.

Is your ignition timing right? If it is advanced too far, your engine
might be kicking back against the starter, which hinders starting.
--
George Downs, The "original" Walrus3, Bartlesville, Oklahoma