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Two weeks ago I bought a used 95 960 wagon. For the first week it ran great. I filled up one time with low test fuel (dumb) and now I have a sputtering engine. It starts up with no problem but idles on the brink of stalling. The tach alternates between 1 and 2 rpm and the tach needle bounces. Then when I put it in drive and give it some gas, it goes real slow for a minute or two and then takes off (whoa!). Is the reason for this the cheap gas? I refilled with high test and added a fuel injector/carb. cleaner. After three days it still does it. After driving around for a while it gets better. Could I need a new fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator? I am not much of a mechanic but I want to know how expensive this problem is going to be to have fixed. Anyone else had this problem? Thanks for any advice.
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I assume the check engine light is not on.
If not, does it come on for a few seconds when you start your car then go out?
If you've got codes in the ECU, you can pull them yourself with no tools on this car. Check the FAQ for the procedure.
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1998 S90 062,925 1995 964 145,750
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No. The check engine light has not come on at all. I am starting to think it is probably a fuel injector problem. How difficult is it to remove? I plan on checking the wiring harness tomorrow. If that ain't it I may have the f.i. cleaned by a pro. It seems to just be running really lean with a low sputtering idle. I don't know, I'm a real novice at this mechanic stuff.
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Is the check engine light bulb working? hence my question about whether it comes on when cranking the engine then goes off when the engine starts. If the bulb is out, you could have a code set and not know it.
When listening to the exhaust, is there a steady (rythmic) miss? or is it random sounding?
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1998 S90 062,925 1995 964 145,750
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Yeah. There does seem to be a steady miss as I listen to the exhaust.
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A steady rhymic miss can mean a dead cylinder i.e. fouled spark plug, loose coil wiring, etc.... I would pull the black plastic cover off the engine and check the wires to the coil packs with the engine running. If nothing changes, you could disconnect each coil pack one at a time and see it there is any change in the engine idle (the same or rougher). This way you can isolate the offending cylinder(s). Then you can pull the plug(s), see if it's fouled, change the plug or swap coil packs.
Or, you could take it to a shop.
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1998 S90 062,925 1995 964 145,750
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Check the harness going to the sparkplug coils, under the top black cover of the engine, engine sputtering has nothing to do with the gas change.
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1996 964 136,600 Miles
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Never have had this problem, but unless the gas had water in it, it shouldn't make a difference. The car is equipped wiith a anti-knock sensor that should quell those pings and knocks. It may, however, make a big difference over the long haul. The car requires premium fuel, period. I know in this time of inflated gas prices it's tempting to dump cheaper gas in it, but the real dollar savings is minuscule compared to what you leave behind in your engine. Decide on a decent brand of gas with cleaners, and stick with it. I use Amoco. That's my advice.
Obviously this could be related to something else, but you haven't completely ruled out the gas being contaminated...
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John Shatzer, '97 V90 @ 94K
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Hey Shatz,
I have been using 87octane gas in my 960 wagon without problems. I thought that there wasn't a difference between 91octane and 87octane in terms of cleaners (detergents). So what kind of stuff do you leave in your engine with the 87octane stuff? I stay away from the no-name brand gas, but with a big-name gas station is there a problem with using 87octane? I get about 1mpg less with 87 compared with 93octane. The car is faster with 93octane but only marginally so.
In response to the origional post, I'm not sure if it will solve your problem, but I would switch to a synthetic motor oil (like Mobil 1). My 960 didn't sputter, but it had a pulsating vibration as you accellerated that I think was sticking exhaust valves. It would definately be worse when the engine was cold. It would also trip the O2 sensor check engine code. Using synthetic cleared up both problems. Definately worth it in this engine. (I still use Castrol dyno oil in my 740 for 200K - no engine trouble.) In the 960, I also flushed the transmission with Mobil 1 synthetic ATF and it shifts smoother and isn't as hot. (But I also installed an auxillary ATF cooler.)
Shatz, I hope you continue to like your new V90! My 960 also did not come with the nivomats and I would rather have them as well. I replaced the shocks at 95K in the rear with the factory ones, but it didn't make much difference, in my opinion. I noticed your post about a thump in the rear over large bumps. I have a similar noise that has plagued me to the point that I think that it must be normal. I think that it might be bottom of the gas tank popping in and out as it seemed to correlate with fuel level, but I am still not sure. Let us know if you make progress on that one.
Sorry for the bad form of multiple threads in one post.
-Steve
Durham, NC
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Steve,
You're right. There are lots of reasons for an engine to sputter or balk, and octane rating shouldn't be among them. I agree that if you stick to a well-known brand of gas (I use Amoco almost exclusively) the 87 octane (is that mid-grade?...I really don't pay attention!) shouldn't make a difference. I guess my point is that when I fill it up with premium, there is typically very little difference in price between it and the midgrade. Even at a nickel difference, that's $1 total for a complete fill-up. Just doesn't seem like it's worth the buck. I bought the car because of its performance, so why not treat it like its recommended?
Now, I said that a while back and someone stated that since they drove about 1K per week or some such thing, the savings are appreciable. No arguement there. I drive more like 1K a month.
I am definitely going to Nivos when I change over, along with the stiffer sway bar, My price at Volvo ($150 + bushings) for a bar is not any different than the IPD (although not as thick), but of course IPD doesn't make them for the later model years. I'll let you know what happens, but it might not be real soon. Too many house projects going on.
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John Shatzer, '97 V90 @ 94K
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Is it sputtering or just idling slow? The idle speed control should maintain +/- 800 rpms even with a "dead" cylinder.
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