Right now I'm using an aftermarket switch, I have the old key switch that matches my door key, the barrel is fussy/stiff, so I wouldn't mind fixing that, but I am also interested in the switch mechanism. It appears to be manufactured unservicable (stamped housing crimped closed). SO what I want to know is what's the deal with opening it (is it possible)? And also how to open the key barrel (I've got old door locks hanging around and i figure I can resurect the assembly if I can get it open without destroying it. Thanks as always. P of M.

The English magazine, Practical Classics, has a section in which they answer queries such as yours. The person who runs this is Peter Simpson and his e-mail address is: -

classichelpline@ownersclub.net

I have read somewhere that he has done this before on a 120 which he had. Give him a try.
Tim C

Patrick;

The fact that your Ign Sw key is the same as your door key is disturing...this was never the case when new, so something has been mucked with...

I've yet to get my hands on a failed Ign Sw, and I've never been curious enough to need to take apart a perfectly good one.

An Ign key turning hard (into the Ign ON postion...we know they ALL turn hard to the START position against the gorilla return spring), should be separated into problems with the lock cylinder (the removable part which you insert the key into, caused by using the nth copy), or a problem with the actual Switch itself.

Cheers

The main problem is in the key barrel, which doesn't seem to want to come apart. The switch works, but the starter part is intermitant, so I figured open it and dress the points. Are you sure the doors use a different key than the ign? I'm pretty positive this is the 2nd 120 I'v had that used (at one point) the same key for the door and the ign.

Patrick;

I don't know what you mean by "key barrel"...first, we need to understand and use common terminology...shown following, are a Nieman [u]lock cylinder[/u]and keys:

...whose flat [u]tail piece[/u] fits into, and turns the [u]Ignition switch[/u].

You need to remove the lock cylinder and determine if it is the lock cylinder itself OR the switch which is hard to turn. Insert key and turn to IGN ON position, push release button behind panel to remove. For additional notes on this, see: http://www.intelab.com/swem/service%20notes.htm#Body .

If the electrical contact itself is intermittant, it would be a great time to install a Start Pushbutton Upgrade which bypasses this contact alltogether, AND prevents future key breakage...and you wont even need to cut open the ignition switch (sorry if you had you heart set on this!...of course you could still dissect it, if you feel this is something you absolutely have to get out of your system....).

My experience with locks and keys is broad, but maybe not absolutely complete...as far as I know, the [u]keyways[/u], for door and ignitions were [i]never[/i] the same (I have seen a replacement lock cylinder recently available with what looks like possibly a new keyway, I have no first-hand experience with these). Also, the length of both the ASSA and Nieman keys used for ignition are longer (6 pins or tumblers) than the door keys (5 pins)...so something was undoubtably changed if one key fits into both locks.

Cheers

Ron;
Ya that's the word, cylinder (barrel). I have removed the cylinder from the Ign.,switch. The switch is fairly stiff but servicable, except for the no start on wet days. As I have already installed a different coil on this car ( I have '75 240 eletronic ignition) it's true that a push button for the starter would be simple enough.
So I went out and checked my keys against the doors.
The same key that with a little fussing turns the ign cyl also locks and unlocks the doors, it requires the same fussing (withdraw the key 1/8").

So whadaya think of this idea? THe key is a bad copy, I get a locksmith to fine tune it for me and voila the whole car opens for me! ................... OR the door locks are so old and worn that a stick fiddled around in them would open then....actually no they won't open using my other 120 keys.
This is a new car for me and I"m just putting it all togehther as we speak. So this appears to be a '68 wagon that uses the same keys in the locks and ign. Weird. Thanks for your help in this, I needed another brain to bounce against. P of M.
p.s. do you know where I could get the trim ring that PO destroyed pulling the ignition switch. How many volvos have i seen with messed up dashes cause no one could work out how to pull the Ign switch. A new trim piece would hide the damage a little.