I'm dealing with a hard-to-turn ignition switch in a 1966 122S. After breaking off the soft el-cheapo key that I got with the car in the switch, I'm on my way to my local dealer to get a steel key. However, I'd rather find a way to be able to turn the key in the switch without having to apply enough torque to break keys off. Has anyone come up with a solution to this mess?

It's a very, very common problem with that switch. Three solutions:

1) Obtain a new tumbler for the switch you have (comes with keys). Not sure about current availability, not cheap. This is really the "correct" fix.

2) Replace with generic ignition switch -- works fine, doesn't look stock. You may not care; fine with me.

3) Use a momentary toggle or pushbutton to activate the starter. You can hide this to retain stock appearance. One terminal outside the armored cable is switched 12V (only hot when ignition is ON). Wire that to one side of the toggle or button, move the solenoid wire from the old switch to the other side of the toggle or button. I ran this for years and never broke another key, instead of one every few weeks.

D;

It is with high confidence that I can say that ALL vintage volvo owners are familliar with the hard-to-turn-ignition problem...because it is built in by design! It is caused by the very heavy return spring in the switch itself (behind the lock cylinder or "lock tumbler"), so I have to dissagree with Phil's No. 1...replacement of the lock cylinder will NOT cure the problem because in just about all cases, the lock cylinder doesn't contribute hardly anything to the turning resistance, so it is not what is causing the problem...beside the fact that they are around $60 (at least still available last time I checked), they do not directly address the root cause. If you buy and install a new lock cylinder, you will have a nice new key, but this too will not be long for this earth...soon you would experience the "Beatles Effect" of vintage Volvo keys.

No.2, don't like that much either...replacing the ignition switch altogether means cutting through the armoured cable (not fun) and installing a switch which can simply be hot-wired from behind (no security).

The ONLY final and long-term effective fix is as Phil states in No.3...installation of a momentary start switch. Period! Switch and OE key are retained for appearance and security, but switch does all the hard work. Life is good!

See also: http://www.intelab.com/swem/swemkits.htm

Cheers

Thanks for all the tips!

Since from all your responses it seemed like my dreams of fixing the switch itself are hopeless, I fixed it today by installing a secondary starter button. The key turns to the "on" position with no problems, and then I can just hit the button to start. I haven't mounted it, hating to drill holes, so it's just dangling at the moment. I'll see if I can mount it up under the dash.

This is a chronic problem with 122s, partly because they last so long.
I got a generic switch from Stephane Lapointe in Quebec for less than $10,
and it has worked great for several years. I know it is not authentic but
it does work.
--
George Downs, The "original" Walrus3, Bartlesville, Oklahoma