By my car's service records, the timing belt was last changed at 130,000 miles. Current mileage is 185,000. I loosened the belt's upper cover by removing three bolts and one philips screw, but I wasn't able to pull it off. Pulling it back a bit I saw that it was a indeed a Volvo belt and looked to be in good condition. But, I noticed when pushing against the run between the cam and intermediate shaft pulley, it had a fair amount of slack. Is this normal? I expected it to be tight. I can easily deflect it about 1/2". Will loosening and retightening the tensioner nut allow it to pull up any slack?

Thanks,
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Erwin in Memphis, '95 855t

simply loosen the T.B.Tensioner nut and then re-tighten it and it will(should) take up the slack.

This is actually a reccomended procedure (per the green-book) which should be done a few hundred miles after installation of a new belt, ( Thus the reason for the removable rubber plug in the T.B.Cover :-)

Fascinating reading, those green-books.

How many turns will be sufficient to effectively loosen it without having the whole shebang falling off?

Erling.
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1987 240 GL 82K miles

While many belts last longer than 55,000 miles, I have had one break at just over 50,000 miles. Re-tension it as noted in the other posts, and get one ordered to install in the near future. With a little experience and if you realy hustle, the belt can be changed in just over an hour if you don't do the seals. That is a lot better than the Hondas. The going rate for a Honda timing belt change is $450 locally. They are an interference engine, too, so it isn't like you want to ignore it.

My 850t wagon's engine is an interference engine also. I haven't changed that belt myself but by the instructions at Bay13 it looks straighforward. There just isn't much working room on the FWD cars.
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Erwin in Memphis, '88 745t 183,000 miles, '95 855t For Sale

Thanks,

I'll order the parts and do it myself.

Regards,

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Erwin in Memphis, '88 745t 183,000 miles, '95 855t For Sale

It will allow it to take up slack especially if you rotate the engine in the direction where the most slack occurs at the tensioner. Although at 55,000 miles, it's 5k overdue for a change anyway.

As you know, you can run it until it dies with no ill effects, other than a towing bill. But if you like to do it yourself, buy a new tensioner ($40), a new belt ($8 for Contitech or Roulunds), three seals (ten bucks) and go for it.

Even if you have someone do the job, it isn't that expensive.
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chris herbst, near chicago

Loosening and re-tightening the tensioner nut will likely re-tension the belt. But you are due for a new belt and new tensioner. If you have not replaced front seals, you are due for those too.