This question is actually for a friend, and I haven't seen the car, but here goes:
This guy is thinking about getting rid of an 80s-ish (?) Diesel 240 with about 350K. He says it's losing power and not running as nicely as before. He may be selling the car to my friend. Our opinion is the motor may just need some basic TLC to bring it back to life. (I've sold him on the durability of my $100 240DL)
Are there any suggestions of what to look for / common problems with diesels / etc that I should be aware of? I know that ANY brick would be better than his Neon, so I'd really love another one parked in our drive next to my current parts car and project (even if it isn't mine).
If there's a FAQ I missed, I'll feel like an idiot later.
Thanks
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Yes, my new car is a 1983.

If it's still running OK just loosing power, chances are the rings are gumming up.
Compression test will tell you it's loosing compression, but it won't tell you why.
Most of these things start loosing compression because the rings get stuck from too long a oil change interval ( some brainchild put the oil change interval in the manual at 7000 miles only changing the filter every-other oil change. While this will work with high quality european fuel and lubricants, it leads to stuck rings on this side of the pond. here in the US a diesel should only go 1500 miles on a oil change with dino oil)

This is why most of these things wind up in the boneyard.

Performing a number of engine flushes / oil changes will many times restore the compression.
I saved mine from a boneyard that way.

If you can find it , a flush made by Liqui-Moly called Ol Schlamm Spulung does wonders on stuck rings( it's getting hard to find, the US distributor is now sellin one labled engine flush, I just bought a case ,but I don't know yet if it works as good as the old stuff).

Bear in mind that if you owne a diesel you need to know first if you have someone that can work on it PROPERLY ( I aquired both of my diesels after 'qualified mechanics' declared them decesed )and even if not doing your own work, it would be wise to invest in the proper timing tools and a factory green manual ( all together about $500) and keep them in the trunk while traveling.
They are not hard to work on , but you have to have the proper tools and book or the things just won't run right.

Look for any signs of coolant loss( low level.) or bad head gasket(bubbles in overflow tank or oil in it)

Check the fluid levels cold then fire it up and run it for a good while. have the guy drive you around for an hour or so then re check levals ( if it's sucking water , it should show)

If it will start on a 30 deg morning onthe glow plugs without complaining too much, that would be a good sign.

If it hasn't had a new starter in the last 150,000 miles, it will need one soon.
Head gaskets commonly give out around 300,000-350,000 so if it has not been replaced , it will most likely need attention soon.
If it hasn't been done in the last year or so, the fuel tank will need to be drained to get water and junk out.

To keep things in perspective, there is no computer or endless sensors to go out, just a simple glow plug circuit.
Hopefully this helps some--------------
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-------Robert, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel , '80 245 diesel

There was a guy, Tom, on the SwedishBricks mailing list who offered a 1 million mile warranty (or whenever he becomes physically unable to rebuild the engine.. whichever comes first) against oil related failures to the first sbricks member to take him up on his offer. There were a few (15 or so) requirements. The first being that he rebuild the engine (D24 or D24T). The second being that the person run only Mobil 1 (except for the breakin period of about 500-1000 miles) and change it (and I believe the filter) every 25,000 miles. The others were more along the lines of using quality parts and fluids in the engine.

Of course Tom has four or five high mileage diesel Volvos in his stable, all running Mobil 1 at 25,000 mile change intervals, and rebuilds the diesel (as found in our beloved RWD bricks, and perhaps others) engines for a living.

I wonder when someone will do that for the red blocks (boy I'd go out and have them rebuild one my engines for sure). I guess the key to longevity with these diesel engines is proper maintenance. It has been mentioned (I guess now I'll have to dig up that post) that you'll absolutely need about 17 special tools from Volvo (or perhaps VW) to do basic maintenance (adjusting valves, remove/replace rear timing belt, adjust timing, etc) on the big diesel. This is in stark contrast to the red blocks, especially the earlier ones, where the most specialized tools you need to perform said maintenance is a big screwdriver and a perhaps a breaker bar. Of course his offer has sent me looking for a cheap 760TD in which to put said engine in... cause 80hp just wouldn't do it for me... and besides aren't turbo diesels supposed to get better mileage? :-D

Just something to wrap one's brain around at this late hour.

- alex

'85 244 Turbo
'84 245 Turbo

The Diesel version is built for a heavier engine, and this is a prime candidate for a V6 or V8 Conversion. If the price is right, maybe that's the pathe to follow. Soccer Mom Special leaves vacuum behind at stop light, sucks fenders off Rice Rocket!!

Just a thought.

Bob

:>)


PS Compression test is an absolute must, done by a Professional as the diesel can run up to 20:1, not the gas 10:1 which you and I can handle.

350K on a 240 D is abvout as good as it gets. Evrything I have ever seen, heard, or read about the diesel engine Volvo used in the 240 has been bad. It was an engine developed with two other car manufactures (Audi, Renault?) and they don,t usually make it to 350K. I guess if you feel like rebuilding the engine etc.. and the rest of the car is really solid, but personally much as I want to run a diesel engine I wouldn't touch the volvo D unless a very sound car was given to me.

Actually the diesel was developed by VW. It's basically one-and-a-half Rabbit or Golf Diesel engines. Those were a 1.6L 4-cyl, this is a 2.4L 6-cyl. Internal components are shared with the VW diesel. As good a reputation as it had in the VWs, it never seemed to fare as well in the Volvo. Also never very popular in this country. A few thousand 240 Diesels sold from 81-85 and a few thousand 760GLE TurboDiesels from 84-86? and that's about it.
For whatever reason Americans just refuse to drive efficient vehicles for the most part. Not that I'm really doing much to help but at least I don't own a 10-mpg Suburban.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 88 744GLE, 91 244: 808K total

I've always heard/experienced great things with the VW diesel 4, why do you figure this didn't carry over to the 6 cyl.?

Do a compression test (or have it done). A diesel losing power at 350K might well be down on compression, and compression is basically essential for a diesel.

Also check the fuel filter and pump.

Bram