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Need help diagnosing clutch cable problem 245ti with m-47 200

Hey,

A previous owner installed an m47 in my 245ti, it's nice to have. I've adjusted the clutch a couple times and am nearing the end of the threads, probably have got .75 of an inch left. At any after adjusting the clutch this weekend to within a .25 inch of the end of the threads I drove off to test it out, after using the clutch a few times it got deeper and deeper and finally stuck to the floor. I realized the clutch cable had failed.

What failed was the plastic retainer sleeve/cuff, sheared right off. I'd seen that before on another cable. I got a new cable and put it in last night. What I didn't see at the clutch arm was any rubber bushing at the end of the clutch arm. After consulting with my friend he seems to think that there is one.

I went ahead and installed the calble. The end of the clutch arm looks like it's had a lot of wear as the end of the clutch arm has been grinding against the hunk of metal that seats the cable ball end.

As I drove home today I noticed the clutch getting deeper and it became harder to shift into 1st....clearly coming out of adjustment. While installing the cable I pryied the arm in order to secure the cable and it is very rigid and I don't notice any flex as if it were cracked or something.

My problem may be a few things-degraded clutch arm/missing rubber bushing. The cable is for an m-47, so it's appropriate. I don't understand why the clutch is coming out of adjustment, there's no way to fix it's position like a cotter pin or something; either that or the arm is bending and I'm not catching on. My friend seems to thing if I get the rubber bushing in there that it will be properly set up, I hope so it is a cheap part.

Any insight would be cool.

Josh








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    Thanks so much for the help, I really appreciate it. Now I can approach it right 200

    nt








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    I'm with Dave... 200

    ...on this one, Josh. I've had two aftermarket clutch cables shear off at the bellhousing on me. Wasn't pleasant the first time (I was in the middle of nowhere and got towed home); the second time happened while my wife was driving. I had to rescue her with a spare 'stock' cable and jackstands, etc. I've learned my lesson -- nothing but the original cable from Volvo. I got mine from George at TVK.

    As Dave says, the stock cable will enable you to properly mount the metal plate and rubber block at the throw-out arm. Lubing the ball end of the cable will enable it to pass through the hole in the rubber block.

    One last thought, and this is pretty rare from what I gather on the 'board, but it happened to me on my '83 and it took over a year to diagnose --> Check that black sheet metal plate on your firewall through which the clutch cable passes. On my '83 a crack formed between the hole for the cable and the edge of the plate. When I pressed the clutch pedal, the metal plate would deform. I adjusted the cable I don't know how many times until I finally figured out what was going on. Like you, I thought the throw-out arm was bending and ready to snap. The solution was to make a replacement plate out of 1/16" sheet metal and bolt it on. If you find you've got this problem, get back to me and I'll give you fabrication details.

    Rob Kuhlman








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      I'm with Dave... 200

      Hi Rob,
      I had the firewall crack on an 81 245 I used to have. I forgot about that
      one. Drove me crazy for awhile,too. Happy rolling!

      Dave








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    Need help diagnosing clutch cable problem 245ti with m-47 200

    From what I can get from your post. You are missing the retainer bracket and
    the rubber buffer from the end of the clutch cable. They are supposed to
    be there holding the clutch cable to the arm. You are probably using the
    aftermarket clutch cable. If this has a threaded plastic section for the
    adjustment then that is what you have. These cables do not work properly on
    a 240. They don't have enough adjustment to install the rubber buffer and
    the bracket on the clutch arm. So most people leave it off. Then you have
    the problem that you describe. Get a Volvo clutch cable or an OEM one.
    Then get the metal retainer and the rubber buffer. That will take care of
    that part of the problem. It is possible that the clutch arm is bent.
    You can watch the action of the cable with the car on ramps. Have a helper
    move the clutch while you watch. You'll be able to see if the arm is bending.

    In general aftermarket cables are of poor quality or don't provide enough
    adjustment to work properly. All the control cables are best to keep
    OEM and you will minimize the hassles. Hope this helps.

    Dave 82 242ti 280k mi.







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