Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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smoky 144 140-160

I have a 1970 144 with a B20B engine. It recently began to smoke very badly and it began to constantly blow out the valve cover gasket. Upon inspection I discovered the person who had this car before me had the hose from the Oil separator on the crankcase going to the intake manifold and the hose from the valve cover (oil cap) going to the air filter. Based upon research I had done this was in reverse. Crankcase should go to air filter and Oil cap (on valve cover) should go to the intake. I reversed this and it stopped blowing out the gasket. But the oil system still seems to be under more pressure than one would think is normal. There is a large amount of blow back if you take the oil cap off. Also Oil is being blown into the air filter housing. The oil level is right in the middle, so I assume it isn't over filled. Also I have no antifreeze in the oil or oil in the antifreeze
I have cleaned out the Ventura (nipple like thing that screws into the intake and connects to the hose from the oil cap) and no change. I have also pressure tested the cylinders and 2 held out at 98% with 2% leak and 2 cylinders showing 20% leak. I have seen cars run with much less than 80% and not smoke anything close to this so I’m not sure if this is the problem or a symptom of the problem.
I assume that there was some catastrophic failure of some part which is causing the oil circulating system to become highly pressurized during normal operation. Because previously the car never burned oil or had smoky exhaust, until one day when it was really cold out. If it was the rings or a blown piston I would think it would show more of a leak in the pressure test. It seems to smoke worse once it’s warmed up. It’s winter here and it doesn’t really begin to smoke until the car is warm, then watch out. Smokes like a James Bond car…
Is it possible I have a bad head gasket, between the oil holes and one or more of the cylinders? Or is it more likely a piston or ring?
Any ideas before I pull the head?
Thank you very much…










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    smoky 144 140-160

    Good points from George, Rhys and Phil. I recently worked on a car with a Weber and the carb was coated with oil as it was spilling out over the filter. Turned out to be a spongy vacuum line from side breather to manifold that colapsed at idle making the top vacuum hose (from cap to filter) suck oil.
    Just a thought,
    Shayne.








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    smoky 144 140-160

    Pull the oil filler cap off at idle. If crankcase gases pulse out of the valve cover in a regular, rhythmic stream, then you have a bad case of blow-by. That's caused in most cases by a broken compression ring. A leak down test is your best bet. You can also remove plug wires in sequence to see which cylinder is contributing the most gases to the crankcase. If the crankcase gets excessive pressure, it can come from one place - the combustion chamber.
    B18 and B20 engines used different crankcase venting system - the B20 uses a system that is the reverse of the B18. Sounds like the previous owner was trying to deal with crankcase pressure. As George says, it doesn't matter which way the vent system flows - if there is excess gases, the problem lies elsewhere.








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    smoky 144 140-160

    There's a bunch of wadded up wire mesh (the flame trap) in the top of the teardrop-shaped thingy (the oil trap). You'll see it if you pull the hose off, and you can pull it out with needle-nose pliers. It's one of those 50-cent parts that's supposed to be replaced every year and rarely is. If it's blocked with gunk, you'll build crankcase pressure.

    However, I suspect you have problems beyond that. 20% leakage in two cyls might cause some pressure if it was leaking through the rings, but not heavy smoke. I suspect your head gasket is a goner and oil is leaking into the cyls directly.

    In that case, your leakdown test by itself would be pressurizing the crankcase -- not sure if you'd be able to hear where the air is going or not... might well be time to pull the head and have a look.








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    smoky 144 140-160

    I'm not sure it makes a lot of difference which hose goes where.
    How do you know your oil pressure is high? Did you hook up a gauge?
    or did you mean crankcase pressure?
    How about oil changes? I'd change the oil and then cob it out
    good and hard and see if it settles down any.

    I am not familiar with your "pressure test" reading in percentages.
    Is that a compression test? What actual pressures did you get?
    Anywhere from 100 to 150 is common with higher pressures for "E"
    engines and lower ones for worn rings and leaking valves. If a spoonful
    of oil in each cylinder raises it, the problem is rings. Otherwise it
    is probably valves.
    --
    George Downs, The "original" Walrus3, Bartlesville, Oklahoma







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