I have the same model, driving it in Norway. I know there are certain differeces between the european models and the models sold for the american and canadian market. Anyway, I suppose you have the B230F-engine, as I have in my GL, and this engine is an injection engine with katalysator using the Lambda sond (oksygen sond) to blend the fuel/air.

I recently checked with a workshop if they could do something with my rather high fuel consumption (1.3L per 10km., driving in city), and they responded the only thing they could check was the Lambda sond: This device adjust the blend to fit the katalysator. Else, I should check the air intake filter and the spark plugs.

My reccomendation for you is to get yourself a Haynes repair-book for your model, and study the exhaust-conditioning system of the car. There are among others a charcoal-filter which maube could contribute to your problems.

While I'm at it; which fuel quality are you giveing the puppy? 91 octane? That's the lowest recommended quality over here, but we only have 95 and 98, so I run mine on 95. The rumors of the jungle says that you occasionally should even run these engines on a full tank of 98, just to clear things up...

As a complete aside, you are a good dad -- putting your daughter in a Volvo. Even though my daughter did not really like it, and called it "the box," an '84 240 that I had her in at age 16, probably saved her serious injury, as she hit a deer squarely at 50 m.p.h. Totaled both the deer and the car, but she did fine. I replaced that dead '84 with a '91 which she drove for a few more years, until she replaced it with a Sebring (hey, I tried). Now, I have the '91 back, and am enjoying driving it. I have already bought a really good, though high milage '88 740 wagon for my 14 year old son. He is excited about doing the fix up on it for when he gets his license. And, I am glad that he will be starting in a Volvo. Volvo safety is not just a cliche!

Based on those readings, either your cat is shot (how were the NOx levels?) or your car is running extremely rich. I saw a bunch of suggestions focusing on what would cause your car to run lean (and thus result in a lean mixture). I'd be more concerned with your off idle readings. The ECU should have been able to lean out the mixture enough based on the feedback it should be getting from the oxygen sensor. Of course you want to start with a basic tune up (plugs, cap, rotor, air filter, oil change) and make sure the car is at operating temperature when you smog it.

Anyhow. First things first. How much is the car warming up? You can/should use an infrared thermometer to check the temperature of the engine. If your car is really running cold, you should also be able to tell by the temp gauge not moving to its normal position (about 9 o'clock). If it's running cold, check for a dead or missing thermostat.

As a side note, I would concur that a so-called Italian Tune-Up is a great idea. 2nd gear on the highway. You should have a rev limiter (about 6000RPM) so basically go as fast as you can for a good five+ minutes. I'm able to keep up with traffic in 3rd gear on my wagon. Of course a tachometer wouldn't be a bad piece of insurance here either. Of course when performing the Italian Tuneup you should run some BG44K thru the fuel system. Better than Techron. As much as it pains me to say this, check with your local JiffyLube. Around here they used to (supposedly they're phasing it out in favor of some cheaper Pennzoil crap, because they make very little profit with the BG products) use BG44K as part of their fuel system service.

Next, you'd want to look at the fuel mileage. If it's really poor (I'd guess 15mpg or less.. you should be getting well into the 20s) your fuel pressure regulator may have failed (or the return line may be clogged). With the engine off pull the/a(?) vaccum hose from the FPR. I don't have a car with EFI so I'm not quite sure how this works. Regardless, there shouldn't be a significant presence of fuel. You could/should test the fuel pressure to verify it's really out of spec. In reality the FPR is a $40 part, and easier to replace than check or repair.

Might be worthwhile to check/replace the oxygen sensor. Check the voltage, etc. If it's the original one, it's almost certainly time for a new one. You should have a three (or four if someone splurged and went for a more solidly grounded one) wire sensor. No, you shouldn't put a one wire in there. Why? Because the three wire will help cut emissions when the engine is cold by reaching operating temperature (~600F) in a more reasonable amount of time.

If that's fine, or your mileage isn't so horrible the engine coolant temperature sensor may be out of wack making the computer think the engine is running really cold (this is not the same sender that powers the gauge). If the computer thinks the engine is cold it will dump lots of fuel in there. You can check the resistance across the sender's terminals at various temperatures to make sure it's in working order. The Bentley manual has the appropriate graphs.

If everything checks out it very well may be your catalytic converter has died. However a dead cat would (IIRC) show up as having high NOx, HC, and CO readings. A rich mixture tends to result in lower NOx readings, and a lean mixture tends to result in lower HC/CO readings.

- alex

'85 244 Turbo
'84 245 Turbo

You're going to find some significant (and probably simple) thing wrong with it. These results are QUITE far off, and the exhaust probably smells like fuel. At the least, and cheapest, you've got a vacuum leak. There shouldn't be any connections off on the intake manifold and throttle body.
If that's all ok, the intake hose (big black plastic pipe from AMM (air mass meter) to intake could have a hole, or series of holes. Take it off and look at it under good light. Replace if defective.
If that's ok, the intake manifold gasket or injector seals could be leaking badly. Usually, these things make the car run quite poorly and the result isn't usually a rich condition which is what this sounds like.
So a couple things are in order. First off, the tuneup parts, cap, rotor, wires (esp the coil wire!) and plugs. Change the plugs no matter what. Easy and cheap work- but be careful not to cross thread #4, that's a common problem.
Next, check the timing. If it's quite far advanced it can have a very significant effect on emissions. Don't force the distributor- a lot of 240 distributors get stuck in the block and don't like to turn. If it looks close, leave it for now. Soak it with PB Blaster or similar if it is stuck though.
The fuel pressure may be too high. This is controlled by the fuel pressure regulator, which is right on the front of the intake, right behind the distributor and PS pump. It's got a single vacuum line that loops around to the front side of it, the back side is connected to the steel fuel rail that feeds the injectors. Take off the hose and see if any gas is on the vacuum side. If there is, replace it before going any farther.
I would try to check it at a shop on an analyzer before getting it retested at this point in the process. The next item to look at and verify is the engine temperature sensor, which is under the intake between cylinders 3 & 4. It's a bit hard to get at but with a strong light you should at least be able to see it and verify that the wire is still connected. If it's not, it'll think the engine is stone cold and make the mixture very rich. Check also for deterioration in the engine wiring, both near this sensor and at the grey plug on the firewall. Rotten insulation is bad news, and that's about the only thing that may keep you from getting this done in a couple of days.
The basic mixture can be set by a screw on the AMM, it's hidden under a plug if it's never been fiddled with. This is done while on the shop analyzer (or follow alternate instructions w/ LED in the 700FAQ).
The last thing that could be confusing the fuel injection is the O2 sensor. Hopefully everything will fall into line with those other fixes. The Bosch sensor isn't cheap (3-wire heated type = $180) though there is a cheaper Ford replacement, requiring a couple of splices but it saves $$.
Good luck with it and post back with results.
The good news is that the 88 is the last year of the LH-Jetronic 2.2 Fuel Injection and it IS pretty easy to work on with normal tools and knowledge.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 88 744GLE, 91 244: 808K total

A quick and inexpensive check would be the large intake hose between the airmass meter and the throttle body. These can rub and wear a hole allowing unmetered air into the system. I would take it off of the car to check it carefully. Replace if defective. As suggested look carefully for vacuum leaks. Many times the hose leading off of the intake through the firewall (climate control) will split at the end and allow leaks. I too would suggest that the O2 sensor be checked for proper function. If the car has been sitting for a while I would make sure that the fuel I was burning during the test was not what had been in the car.

Randy

I think you should start with a tune up at the least and see from there. Change plugs, cap, rotors, wires, and air filter. Run a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner through it. Also see the faqs on the site for other maintance tips, flame trap, throtle body cleaning ect. Also check the o2 sensor.

Check out these online retailers for parts and prices
fcpgroton.com
alloemvolvoparts.com
ipdusa.com

Check the archives on "emissions test pass/fail" to see what suggestions have been offered in the past. Could be something as simple as needing a new catalytic converter, assuming car is in tune and sensors are ok. Other easy areas to check are: clean air filter, was car up to operating temperature - I always drive mine for about 20 minutes on highway before our E-test here in Ohio.

Found this in a previous post: The car in question was running rich:
"try the adjustment in the air mass meter. It can control the rich/lean level"

Jay
84 245 GLTi 221k