My '80 245 DL has been with out working AC since it was aquired back in '88 or '89 I believe (so long ago.) Anyhow, how hard would it be to replace/repair the AC? I just did the heater blower motor a little while ago, and it couldn't be any more difficult then that. I can't varify it, but I'm pretty sure that the AC system has never been recharged, (I've never had it done, and the climate where the car was purchaced from was pretty cold, no reason to use an AC.)

When I turn the knob on inside the car, it does nothing. Not a single thing. With or with out the fan on. No noise, no air, not a thing. (When I did the heater fan, I didn't hook up the switch to the AC relay like the instructions said, but that's something I can do with little trouble.)

Any ideas where to start? The AC isn't nessicary, but after many many summers of sweating, I figure I should take car of this problem now if I can.

Thanks every one!

Hi Brickboarders
What a fantastic site! Whilst i have a reasonably high level of mechanical knowledge,good workshop facilities etc I am learning heaps about Volvos. Thanks.

I recently rebuilt the AC on my daughter's 240 wagon "83.

It had a faulty/stuffed York ( upright)compressor caused by no gas.
I had a spare so I...
Checked the clutch ..it has a loud click/clunk when it engages..ie 12 volts is applied to the wire coming from behind the pulley.
Checked the compression/suction..place fingers/bungs over the inlet/outlet and turn compressor crankshaft..feel for shaft slack etc at the same time.
Removed pulley . Undo centre holding bolt..then use larger (3/4?) bolt as an extractor..don't lose woodruff key on shaft. Once it starts, it slips off the tapered shaft easily.
Replaced the front shaft seal...first remove the electromagnet (round black donut in silver housing fixed to front casing with 4 bolts) then remove 6 ? small bolts holding seal.
With the pulley off check the bearing..if it feels rough or lumpy when it spins Replace it!..(cheap, from a local bearing supplies)...use circlip pliers and press or gently punch out the pulley bearing. refit with spacer washers ,circlips etc.
Drained oil and replaced with new compressor oil ( 265Mil?...we use metrics in Australia)

To replace compressor you will need to remove engine pulleys and belts and remove power steering pump ( don't disconnect, simply move out of the way) then the big bracket holding the A/C compressor.

It is indusry practice to replace the receiver/dryer (long black cylinder) which takes moisture out of the system..whilst the system is "open".
New receiver/dryers have a bipolar pressure switch (referred to in other responses) this is wired between the power source and the compressor clutch and won't allow clutch to engage and drive the compressor if there is no gas/pressure in the system ..or the pressure is too high.

I had lost the gas through a hose fitting leak..there was no pressure switch fitted to the original system and it siezed the compressor! I fitted one this time and wired it as above.

My local AC shop tested the system for leaks (with Nitrogen ..which is Dry) and we replaced the faulty/leaking hose and fitted new O rings.

I intended to retro fit with R134a by he suggested remaining with R12 as R134a runs higher pressures etc and is more likely to cause problems with old hoses etc ...as described in other reponses.
A non-leaking system with R12 works fine as it has for many years!

The system now works really well and I have a happy daughter.

If you are not up to regassing ...A good AC shop will test the system for leaks and scavenge any gas in the system before opening it..you can do some repairs and fitting labour and return it to the shop for regassing.

good luck...(sorry for the long response)

I may be wrong, but I am thinking that due to EPA regs., this is really not a DIY job. Your car uses the old type freon (R12?) and at least in this state, you must have a special license to handle it. I think to be entirely legal, you must have a licensed person evacuate your existing system, even if you had the means of installing a more modern system designed for the new R134, or whatever. Bottomline, unless you are intimately attached to your '80, and plan to drive it a long time, it might not be worth the hassel and expense you would be facing. On the other hand, you might spend a few bucks for a competant A/C shop to see what kind of condition your existing system is in. Maybe minor repairs and a good charge would get you going for a couple hundred bucks, but don't hold your breath, considering the years of not being used.

What about those conversion kits? I've seen some before, but I don't know how effective they might be. For some $1200, I'll keep sweating. Is this one of those labor heavy repairs like the heater blower motor?

I think most of what is involved is:

1. Replace receiver/dryer.
2. I think O rings have to be replaced with compat. ones.
3. Totally flush the system to get out the old oil.
4. Quite often hoses need to be replaced with barrier hoses as the R134 molecules are smaller than R12 and can leak through the pores on some hoses!
5. Charge fitting is changed or an adapter is screwed on.
6. Fill with R134 compat. oil.

A friend works for Wynns Climate Systems and he was telling me that when they were first experimenting with with system retrofits they would charge it up, run it and come back in a few days and all the juice would be gone. He said they drove themselves nuts looking for leaks until they realized it was actually leaking out through the "pores" in the standard rubber hoses!

I'm not sure what shops are charging for R12 nowdays ($25-$30/pound?) but if all you need is a evac and recharge I wouldn't think it wouldn't take much more than 3 lb to recharge.

I'm just gonna keep putting R12 in mine (I bought 2 cases when it got up to the ridiculous price of $3.29/can and still have one case left) until something major needs to be done then probably will switch it over. I still have two vehicles that use R12...

Have fun,

Justin B.

Just to give you an idea, the PO of my 1981 replaced the entire AC system with all new stuff, right down to the switch on the dash. It uses the new freon. The receipt is for $1265 to have a shop do everything.
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Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock; 86 240, 129K

I agree with Bob, I bought an MGB/GT that had inop AC for several years and the belt was off, PO said he didn't remember what was wrong with it but it hadn't worked for a long time. I put a belt on it, pumped it down for a couple hours, recharged it and it would freeze you out!!

Don't let the treehuggers talk you into automatically retrofitting to R134 as long as your compressor and lines and stuff don't leak. Although the good ol' R12 is pretty expensive right now if your system is tight and all it needs is an evacuate and recharge it'll still be a lot cheaper that converting over to the politically correct refrigerant. Now, if you have leaky hoses and stuff maybe replace them with R134 compatable hoses or if you need a compressor then it might make sense to retrofit as a compressor exchange usually calls for a new dryer as well...

Good luck,

Justin B.
83 244 Turbo w/ozone eating, planet killing, cold-a$$ R12!!! ;-)

Hook up the a/c lead from the blower switch. Hood up, engine stopped, engage a/c. You should hear a CLACK when the compressor clutch engages.

If your car has a a/c pressure switch, you'll have to jump it. It is a 2-wire connection to the top of the receiver/dryer. With the car set up so the compressor should engage, short between the two wires. Lift the connector off the receiver/dryer a little and put a paper clip or something in there to touch both terminals.

If the clutch does not engage, there's problems in the switching system. If it does, the system may just have low or no Freon charge. It may have leaks. Given the cost of a can of R12 Freon now (!@$@*% EPA), get an a/c shop to run a leak test using nitrogen.

Repairing an a/c system isn't hard. Just greasy and needs some special tools, like a gauge set and a vacuum pump. Got tools?

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

I fear that after being inactive that long, it most likely has no freon in it and may well have moisture in it. The cost to get it working could exceed $1000. If you take it to a shop as/is, they will probably quote you $1200-$1300.

There is nothing about it that is as difficult as the heater blower, but after the parts are replaced, you will need a vacuum pump to evacuate the air and moisture from the system before you can fill it with freon, so you will need the help of a refrigeration technician (unless you want to build your own vacuum pump from an old refrigerator pump).