well, after fixing the belt problems, i now seem to have a couple new ones. first off, the car after only driving for about a half-mile brings the temp gauge well over 2/3rds up. if i idle at a stop, i can watch it move back down to about half, and then when i go again it rises up. i havent driven the car enough to see how high it will go, and i dont really want to put that stress on it anyway, but what the heck could i have done while changing my belts that would cause it to do this now? also, my brake failure light is constantly on now. it used to come on intermittantly, and i've had the brakes go out a couple times (just pumped them furiously and they came back) interestingly, the light never came on when they did go out, and they've never gone out when the light comes on. but i am kinda curious as to why its doing this.

Mine does the same. Check the Compensating board. Do a search in the board. Lots of information will appear.
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1987 - 240 DL 76k mi

The wonderful, underworked Volvo engineers put that temp compensation board into the instrument cluster beginning in 1985 or 86. The earlier models show what's truly going on.

The range of temp you see looks like a thermostat problem. First start, the temp should rise almost to red, then drop to 9 o'clock normal position as the thermostat opens fully.

Since the temp drops when you are above idle, try this - open the heater to full hot and see what changes. Cooler? Rad is not removing heat fast enough at idle. Water spray from fan side outwards (engine stopped) to blow out and dirt and junk from the rad fins.

If that doesn't do it you may need radiator work.

Brakes. The brake failure light comes on when the pressure in the two circuits is not balanced. This often happens due to failure of one of the O rings in the distribution block. Look for low fluid level in one of the two the MC reservoirs, and a leak spot on the ground just inside the LF wheel.

You can feed the leak while preparing (gathering parts, time, money) to make the repair. Since the lines from the MC to the distribution block are vertical, the leak will allow air only into those lines - at first.

Carry a can of DOT 4 fluid on board. Check the fluid morning and evening. Top up especially every evening, so that any air bubbles in those lines can float up and out over night.

Be vigilant. I had the problem and wasn't vigilant enough. Would up running on only one circuit, and grinding the front pads to wedges. One piston pair worked, the other not. Put metal to rotor quite fast. $$$

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Before you panic on the temperature, let me share what I learned on this BB with you. Take your right hand and give the dash a good thump over the top of the temp guage the next time it happens. If it suddenly drops back down, you may have a problem inside the instrument cluster. It is a small printed circut board that you can change. I just keep hitting the dash when it shows warm and she drops right on back down (Except that time she threw her water pump belts). Drives my wife up the wall by the way when I do my "calibration".

Now the brakes, First thing I do is bleed them.

After that fails, well I had a very simular problem. The petal eased to the floor slowly. Never lost my brakes but it was scary as hell. It was the part that distributes the brake fluid to the four wheels. To save my life I can not remember what it is called now. Follow the main line out from the master cyld, and It is located on the drivers side of the car next the tranny. You have to crawl under to see it. Cost me something like $85.00 and problem solved. Bleed all the lines when finished and you will know you fixed it right away.

Hope this helps.

Good Bricking...

Are you thinking of the Junction box for the brakes? I had the junction box fail on my '80 245 a good while back, brake petal went all the way to the floor, the car started smelling like brake fluid, etc... Since I replaced it, everything has been fine.