I've purchased an early 80's 240 and the headlights are dim. The aim is ok and the battery charge is ok but the heads are like having two cheap flashlights and when I put the highbeam on its like having three flashlights. I'm a student so is there any cheap way to improve them? Are 240 headlights crap?I've also noticed in daylight one of the lights looks darker than the other like the silver reflector paint inthe unit has deteriorated or something. Any help? I'm happy with the car cept driving at night.Thanks heaps.

Don Foster has covered pretty much all the points, but there also could be a problem with the headlight switch. Volvo's headlight wiring follows a long path from battery to the light switch on the dash, to the beam switching relay right behind the battery, and then (for the low beams) back up to the dash to the bulb-out indicator module, then finally back to the lights. So there are plenty of places for a bad connection to put resistance into the circuit and give you dim lighting. That said, the underhood connectors and grounding points are the most likely. Behind each pair of (left&right)lights, and just inside the engine compartment is a connector with a red and a blue wire coming out each side. The left one is buried between the headlight backing and the battery. Check these for a firm connection. The headlight grounds are via small black wires fastened to the inner fender by a Phillips screw. Left is (yet again) buried behind the battery, the right one is behind the windshield washer reservoir.

You really need to have a "multimeter" for this kind of troubleshooting. Radio Shack have a small simple one on sale right now for $12-$13 or so. I have an older version of this, and although I also have two DMM's and a much more sophisticated analog unit, the little one gets used 95% of the time.

Headlight bulbs either work 100% or not at all - if they're dim it's a bad connection as Don said. If you get new ones, the Sylvania halogens are quite good, and I wouldn't spend the extra money for their "ExtraVision" bulbs - did that already and could see no difference in actual use.
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Bob (81-244GL B21F, 83-244DL B23F)

The headlights from '81 to '85 were the quad rectangular style. Ordinarily, these do a good job and are considerably better than the plastic headlights used on '86 and newer model 240s.

Check the connections (and connectors) in the cables going to the headlights -- they're known to become corroded and grime-filled, which creates resistance. Check the plugs at the bulbs. Most importantly, check the ground connections, which are a common source of resistance.

Any corroded or crummy connections will create resistance which limits the current flow through the bulbs and they become yellow and dim.

Use a good voltmeter and measure the voltage at the bulb socket with the lights on and plugged in and the engine idling. Put the black lead to a solid chassis ground. You should measure at least 12 volts at the "hot" side and essentially 0 volts at the ground lug of the bulb. If you measure more than about 0.25 volts (1/4 volt) at the ground lug, then you have resistance in the ground lead. If you measure less than 11.5 to 12.0 volts at the "hot" side, then you have resistance in the power feeding to the bulb.

Do this with the engine idling -- you should measure at least 13 volts across the battery. If you don't, your problem might be alternator related (or the wiring to it).

"...one of the lights looks darker than the other..."

It might be time for 4 new bulbs. Be sure to get halogen bulbs. I like the Sylvania brand.
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Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Could someone please explain to me why the US cars have the plastic headlights? My guess would be that this is safety related -- but where's the safety if they yellow and get opaque over time?? Occasionally I see very good Euro-lights at the local wrecking yard, but will you be allowed to install them?

Erling, Norway.
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1987 240 GL 81K miles

Originally the answer was NO. However, most states do not have an exhaustive inspection program like England's MOT. Our state did have a difficult inspection system, but it's been gradually watered down and now only has to be performed for 25+ yera old cars. On the plus side, the old ones become exempt from emissions (smog) testing.
As for compliance with euro lamps, I don't believe any inspector working for this state is smart enough to catch them. If the lights turned on, and dipped when you pulled the lever, that would be enough for them. Next please!
Obviously there was a lot of legal wrangling that went into the headlight approvals in this country. For many years (1967 to 1986, to be exact) cars were required to use sealed beams. That meant 4 round (like a 265) 4 square (81-85 240) 2 round (76 242) or 2 square (fortunately never on a Volvo). That was it- no glass covers, no replaceable bulbs, just sealed beams. In 1986, the federal government relented and allowed any shape of reflector and lens, within certain size guidelines. Since then, it's been deregulated further mainly as a result of European lamp development. We now get BMW and M-B cars with those brilliant arc-lights and UV lights and blue lights and all kinds of stuff.
I would say the E-code lamps have plenty of precedent here now, in OEM designs. However, they were never certified during the time of 240 production... so technically they're not legal.
Like I said I doubt any DMV inspector is bright enough (get it?) to catch them and write them up. In fact I challenge any inspectors listening to competently handle the legalities of alternate types of factory lighting. Very tough to discern what's legal for all types of cars. It brings up a whole host of things no one wants to get into. Can I use 4 round lights instead of 4 rectangular? Can I put the factory fog light kit on my 164? It's going to come down to whether an inspector is paying attention, had a good breakfast, needs to go to the bathroom, feels cranky.... I'd bet these lamps get through inspection 95% of the time at least. And if there really WAS an inspection issue in your area, you'd do this: take the car in for inspection, stock, pass, then change them out. Very simple to skirt that requirement.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 88 744GLE, 91 244: 808K total

I'll bet it all has to do with money, or the saving thereof.

Plastic lenses would be fine on a car that, on average, is not expected to last beyond 7-10 years, such as an American car. But a Volvo?

Regarding glass lenses in European versions of the 240....... Could it be that European safety regulators are smarter, more independant minded, and more forward looking than their American counterparts?
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Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)