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Due to popular demand (well, I think one person asked) I'll outline what I did and will do to control the noise in my '68 122.
When I first got the car (7 yrs ago) I had to shout to speak with a pasanger, and this with the exhaust not being all that compromised at the time. Now it seems almost like a "normal" car when riding, except when going 70 or faster when the exhaust starts to protest.
Two of the pricipal substances I've used to deaden sound are dynomat and that spongy self adhering stuff. Both were purchased from JC Whitney.
Before I had the carpet installed I stripped out whatever was on the floor down to the metal. I had already repaired the floors so I painted them with some kind of rustolium paint. Then I covered the entire floor with a layer of the dynomat, followed by a layer of the spongy stuff. Then the upholsterer put down a layer of "sound deadening" mat and then the carpet.
That's the floor.
By the way in the interest of puddle control on the front floors I applyed window and door silicon sealant around the windshield (that is, on each side of the winshield strip chrome and around the whole windshield. It works pretty good, although tends to need freshening up once and a while.) and bought some pretty study rubber mats, for when it does drip.
The inside of the trunk and hood lids both recieved a layer of the sound deadening sponge, an inch thick. I took them off and put them inverted on a table and stuck the sponge which is self-adhereing, but not to be trusted)down with industrial strength glue from the hardware store. The front of the trunk also got the "sponge treatment, as did the inside of both doors.
Before I put in a new headliner a few years ago I glued (and ironed!) some dynomat to the ceiling.
The front windows are an ongong mission. So far I have installed new rubber around the vent window and got some of those security latches from IPD, which keep the vents closed and secure. I glued in new felt in the runners of the front windows. They're kind of hand crafted from a Whitney products and do, in fact, stop that irritating wind sound when riding up the freeway if I be sure to put some extra pressure on the cranks. I want to update the runners with a better material.
When I install my M41 w/OD next summer I'm going to "insulate" that whole area. I just haven't figured out exactly how yet.
Speaking of which, can anyone tell me how to cut the hole in a 122 when I convert from the long shifter to the short. The M41 is from a P1800 and of course has an extended cover. I know I can switch plates, but I think the short shifter will be kinda cool.
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Way back when, IPD used to sell a "short shift" kit for 122 and 544. It runs on top of the trans tunnel and connects to the gearbox through the original hole used by the wobble stick.
I used this on our 122S for years and it worked fine, but eventually decided I liked the original long stick better and put that back on. I could probably be talked out of the IPD thing for a sensible price...
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Wow. Post a photo! Or write an article in vclassics about odd old ipd stuff (in all your free time!!). Wish I could contribute to that.
Hope things are well.
--
Justin 70 1800E, 66 122E, 71 145S Read vclassics!
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I do have a photo of the thing someplace... I'll try to dig it up.
It's just a bunch of rectangular-section steel bar, 1" x 1/4", an angle iron or two, some nylon washers where the bars intersect, and a round stick welded to one of the bars so there's a place for a shift knob to screw onto.
Originally, you cut your wobble stick down to a specific length, ground a flat spot halfway through it, and the front bar bolts to that. Then cut a hole in the heater duct thingie and bolt one of the angle irons to the trans tunnel.
Well, that's clear as mud... I'll look for the pic.
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This pic is so old it faded on the zip disk... sorry, it's the best one I've got.
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Greetings,
Thank you for the 122s noise reducing ideas. Sometime when I have the time...
Installing carpet in my 68 122s wagon really helped cut noise.
In my origial 67 122s wqgon I had a m41 OD installed. I cut the 122s transmission tunnel to fit the 72 short shifter in. I sheet metal screwed the new metal in. The only disadvantage is the loss of heater air to the back.
I suggest, just do it.
Cheers, Don V Durango, CO.
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Thanks for the excellent pictures!
All that cutting is required just to replace the M40 with the M41? Or were you going from an automatic to M41? I ask because I'd like to replace my BW35 with an M41 someday, and it seems like I might be in for the same process, money and time and an engine rebuild allowing.
--
1981 242GLTi 1967.5 122S Automatic (Project)
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No, a M41 will fit without cutting. I installed the shifter from a 1800, though, hence the gaping hole.
--
Justin 70 1800E, 66 122E, 71 145S Read vclassics!
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Justin,
Great pics on the tunnel job.
Do you think the long neck on the extended shifter could be disassebled and then reassembled after tranny w/OD installation, with an eye on minimal cutting of the tunnel? I was thinking of those four hex bolts which hold the long extender on.
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Yes, excellent pictures. I installed an M41 with extended lever, to replace the M40 in my 122S. I used the tunnel top only from a wrecked 142, so I didn't cut the tunnel away fully to the floor, works well, and cover is bolted with self-tapping bolts. It is really handy to have a removable cover when taking the engine/gearbox unit out and putting it back in, also working on the driveshaft flange from the top is handy, so my advice is to consider some sort of removable option, more photos on my web page, also about bonnet insulation. http://volvoadventures.com/amazon2.html
Regards,
Jim
New Zealand
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Sorry, I installed a M46 which was a bit more complicated than a M41, but remote lever installation is the same as for M41. The M46 is higher and needs another bellhousing and support bracket for the B20, all that work is also shown on my pages.
http://volvoadventures.com/amazon.html
Jim
New Zealand
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Thanks for the info, now I know what to do when I retire.
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