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b20 engine mount bolt extraction repair. 140-160

posted by  uniberp on  Tue Jan 28 05:37 CST 2003
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last visit: Mon Jan 31 07:08 CST 2011
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The left side engine mount, the triangular aluminum part, on my B20f in a '74 145e cracked off the front and top bolts which hold it to the engine block, allowing the engine to sit on the crossmember. The back/bottom bolt hole is still okay.

Has anyone had any luck using a right angle drill to drill out the studs and easy-out them? Is there such a thing as a left hand extracting drill bit? Seems like they wouldn't be bottomed out, but they might have bent a little before they broke.

Temporarily, I fabbed a 2 inch mild steel link that supports it from the old fuelpump mount, by drilling out the back of the mount to accomodate a bolt head, and bolting it to the link and then to the fuel pump mount.

Other than that, I'm still moving parts off the old '73 145e. Those who responded about the D-jet parts, I'm getting there.

And I have to replace the heater fan. No fun.

But it is a great driver.

MP.








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    b20 engine mount bolt extraction repair. 140-160

    posted by  wolwo's are us on  Tue Jan 28 16:59 CST 2003
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    Yes there are left handed drill bits. Normally they come with an extracting
    set.(Snapon, Mac, possibly sears has them) Ron, Brett are correct, the studs
    should turn out with some access. If they are seized, drilling and tapping
    is one choice the other that i prefer is to (providing you have a mig welder)
    weld a bead on the end of the broken bolt then weld a nut onto that.
    they always come out with that type of torture.








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    b20 engine mount bolt extraction repair. 140-160

    posted by  Ron Kwas on  Tue Jan 28 10:06 CST 2003
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 04:03 CST 2014
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    M;

    Motor mount bolts typically brake because they back out under vibration and the mount vibrates against their side weakening them until they fail. The good thing in this situation is that if you jack up the motor, remove the bracket and clean up everything to get a good look, there may be enough of the bolt to grab onto or as Brett writes remove it with a punch, or even dremel a slot into it for a flatblade screwdriver... the bolt is usually loose and oilsoaked so should be fairly easy to remove since its not torqued.

    Inspect the side of the other bolts you remove before reusing them. If there are signs of weakening, replace with new grade 8 hardware.

    Good luck, please let us know how you make out.








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    b20 engine mount bolt extraction repair. 140-160

    posted by  brettsutherland on  Tue Jan 28 07:38 CST 2003
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    Hi MP

    Just had exactly the same thing happen with the B20B in my 122..... thought the motor mount had collapsed so bought a pair .... Imagine my surprise to find the engine literally hanging on by the top bolt with the front bottom one completely missing and the rear one with the head snapped off .... it came out very easily with a punch and a hammer .... maybe a small cold chisel .... there was no tension on the bolt as it wasn't bottomed out ... hope you have as good luck with yours .... I might suggest that you give the other side a check while you are at it .... it was missing one bolt on the other side and one other was loose ..... I replaced both engine mounts although on inspection it was not really necessary inserted new bolts all around and tightened everything back up ... Quite a difference !!!

    --
    Brett Sutherland & the 1.5 million mile 122 Canadian








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    b20 engine mount bolt extraction repair. 140-160

    posted by  blackjackmc on  Tue Jan 28 06:35 CST 2003
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    last visit: Mon Jul 27 10:24 CST 2009
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    It is imperitive that any drilling be carried out in the exact centre of stud. Idoubt you could use 90o adapter without running off.Try using sharp centre punch and small hammer,stud should not be tight in thread unless rusted or as you say wrong stud used and bottomed out. Good luck.







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