The oppurtunity has come my way to buy a 1990 240 wagon. It has about 217,000 miles on it and I think I can get it for around $1200. I drove it and it's in decent shape since it hasn't been run for about 5 months. It shifts smoothly and it may need new brakes. Is there anything mechanically I should pay attention to and is this a good deal or not? I appreciate any help

My 90 sedan doesn't have any rust and I live on a costal inlet where some salt is used on the roads. At 217K, I would take a look at the steering, suspension,
tranny and engine seals, H2O pump and T-belt. Remember, Volvos can go forever, but the moving mechanics of the car require items to be repaired or replaced in a timely manor. Things do wear out, however, that being said, Volvos are one of the most user friendly cars for the home mechanic. I'd suggest you get a Volvo service schedule to ascertain "just whats been done on schedule" to this car. $1200 is a good deal for a nice body, but you could easily stick a couple of grand into parts if you have to bring back up to standards. If you buy the car and it turns out to be a hanger queen, you can always part it out and recoup the $1200.

Take the car to a Volvo independent shop and have it inspected. They will tell you what's needed, what's critical, what things cost, and maybe a consult on whether you ought to buy. While it's up on the rack, you can check for flood-borne debris on the top of the gas tank. Also for clogged up drain ports along the bottom edge of the rocker panels. There are 3 or 4 each side.

Test drive and watch the odometer. If it doesn't work (and many fail) look for signs that can reveal the actual mileage. Look at the bottom side of the two front seats. Is there foam pad "dust" on the carpet? Are there four springs on each side of each seat-bottom grid? These are reparable, but they can help discover mileage.

With the engine idling, open the oil filler cap. Scrape the inner side with a fingernail (or something) to check for excessive grunge. Much means poor maintenance, pink flag. Replace the cap but do not tighten it. Lift it off delicately and see if there is a slight vacuum pulling it down. No? Check for oil leaks at the camshaft seal, intermediate shaft seal, and front and rear main crankshaft seals. Everything can be fixed DIY at low cost EXCEPT the rear main seal, for which the transmission must be removed.

Check for rust along the bottom of the cargo area side windows and the bottom edge of the cargo doors.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

rust, volvo's are famos for it , on the floor pans, sparetire/storage area,in the wagon under the rear 3rd seat area(hinged panel),rocker panels,ect. also check the fuel pumps, mine sat about 6 months before i got it('85 245 dl) and both pumps were gone. wiring harness rot is common but easily replaced.Those are the biggest issuse i can think of am i forgeting anything, B.C., Foster, Chris H.? (my idols)lol
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Dan D. '85 245 DL , '83 244 Turbo Delanisdjd@aol.com

I believe by 1990, both the excessive rust and wire rot problems were well resolved. If the car body is in decent shape, $1200 would be a great deal even if one had to replace the engine. For that kind of money, I think I would pay more attention to the overall wear and cosmetics of the car, and, if there was no rust(which there shouldn't be), no sign of flood damage, major accident, etc., I would certainly go for it, if I liked the car, even knowing I might have to spend another $1000-1500 on repairs at some point.