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1981 242 non-turbo. Fuel pump problems. More facts. More questions.
I'm getting a distinct humming noise when the engine is running (and the fan motor is disconnected) is the fuel pump. I hear it at idle and at low speeds. At higher speeds, road and wind noise cover it. Listening with a stethoscope at idle seems to pinpoint the sound to the main fuel pump in front of the tank. The humming noise is loudest through the stethoscope the closer I get to the main pump. It's not as loud at or near the tank. Testing on the tank-to-pump fuel line the noise gets louder the closer I get to the main pump, then tapers off again as I get farther and farther in front of the pump toward the engine. I filled up the tank and I still get this humming noise. Are these symtoms enough to diagnose the problem as the main fuel pump rather than the transfer pump in the tank. They're pretty expensive so I want to be sure.
How long do they typically hum before going out completely? Any danger or added expense in waiting a while to repair? Any information or tips about this would be really appreciated.
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Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock; 86 240, 129K, once in Rolling, now smashed quarter panel thanks to driver of an F150. Daughter safe in her Volvo.
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Thank you for the help. How difficult is it to replace the in-tank pump? Any recommendations on which brand to buy and where? From what you're saying, and the fact that I found records showing that the main pump was replaced a few years ago, it may be the best way to start.
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Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock; 86 240, 129K, once in Rolling, now smashed quarter panel thanks to driver of an F150. Daughter safe in her Volvo.
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I've had a two different shops do it, and both recomended going with the heavier duty intank pump unit that was standard with 84 or 85 models on up. I little more expensive, and they have to do a few small modifications to make it work. I do most of the work on my car, but i get queazy when it comes to opening the gas tank. I always flash back to those 50's A-bomb films. Seriously, others on this board will walk you through it, or check the archives.
-Bruce
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Actually, I think the recommended "upgrade pump" is from a 700 series Turbo. I've got an 82 turbo and when I replaced the in tank pump with a stock unit, my main pump actually got louder. It's been totally silent since I cut 3/8" off the down tube and put in a pump from a 700 series b23FT. My main pump was even noisy at idle so I don't think this is totally a turbo engine issue, it could apply to any K-jet Volvo.
Bob
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91 740 Ti 173K
82 intercooled turbowagon 237K
67 122 wagon
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As was pointed out, the main pump is probably noisy due to a non op in tank pump.. or a clogged pickup screen for the in tank pump, etc. You should at least check that out.
How long will your noisy pump last? Who knows. I'd start to really worry when you notice the car not running so well. Maybe stumbling a bit, less virgorous acceleration, harder to start, etc.
- alex
'85 244 Turbo | ~145.5k miles
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A noisey main pump can indicate that the intank pump is not working. Many times replacing a non functioning intank pump will quiet a noisey main pump.
Randy
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replacing it if fairly straight forward, Howerver it involves removing the tank(in my wagon i had to if you know another way PLEASE let me know!) I was fortunate enough to have the use of a car dealers ramps. first you need to loosen the tank acess hole cover(screwdriver and hammer)pull it up sightly. Get under the car and drain the tank, theres a bolt on the bottom of the tank very easy to do, have a five gallon bucket(s) ready to catch the fuel, i had my tank reading on red and i still had 6 gallons in it! After draining the tank (this is the hard part) you need to reach up and loosen the fuel filler hose clamp, it's straight forward operation but a pain to reach! after thefiller is loose and all the gas is drained, it's time to pull the tank 5 bolts and your done be careful not to damage your sender while dropping it. i found 2 old filter socks and a spare sender float ball, in the bottom of the tank lol. while i had it out i cleaned the tank dried it and Phospoho'd it (phospho is a rust inhibitor). Replacement is just the reverse. good luck.
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Dan D. '85 245 DL , '83 244 Turbo Delanisdjd@aol.com
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Tank removal is not required at all. A couple of screws hold the cargo floor down. Remove these, lift the floor and you will see a metal plate with 2 screws that gives access to the intank pump/quantity sensor unit.
In reference to the original question, it is easy to tell if the in-tank pump is running by listening at the open fuel filler. To double check, pull fuse #5 with the engine running and the in tank pump sound should stop.
If it is running, there could still be a leaking hose at the pump output. Pull the pump unit to check (wise to replace the hose at this point). If the pump and hose are OK and the filter sock is clean, accept the noise from the main pump and drive until you notice the engine losing power under conditions of high fuel flow (high rpm and wide open throttle). Degradation is very slow (1000's or 10s of 1000s of miles), so when you notice a problem, you can start to think abpout replacing the pump. It is something that doesn't need to be replaced if it ain't broke.
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'61 122s B16, '67 122s B18, '76 245 B21F, '81 245 B23E, '90 745 B234, '95 960 B6304 (not counting parts cars)
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Thanks for the help. How do you access the in-tank pump on a sedan?
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Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock; 86 240, 129K, once in Rolling, now smashed quarter panel thanks to driver of an F150. Daughter safe in her Volvo.
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It has the same little hatch as the wagon, except it's in the trunk, near the rear seat.
Bob
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91 740 Ti 173K
82 intercooled turbowagon 237K
67 122 wagon
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