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The new brick arrives tomorrow, an early 242t, non-intercooled. It has a few issues, as would any car that has sat outside, undriven for 7 years, but the one that I am most concerned with at the moment is an idle problem. It surges between 900 and 1300 rpm about every two seconds. A quick glance at the induction hoses showed drops of oil below the hose at the TB which could mean a pinhole leak. I plan to change all the vacuum and turbo hoses ASAP, but I wondered if anyone had any other ideas as to what I should be looking for...besides my sanity.
The car has had a recent tune up (plugs, points, cap, rotor, wires), new timing belt and seals, coolant and oil changes and new engine and trans mounts in the last couple of months.
Thanks!
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don hodgdon '89 740ti, '81 240t, '71 D-35
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Well, it turned out to be an easy fix, the vacuum hose at the wastegate had rotted off. Two minutes to replace the hose and the car purrs like a kitten. The car still has many "issues" including a bad wiring harness (Dave Barton has one in stock) and it's still running the original oil-cooled turbo. I found a water-cooled unit with all the necessary plumbing for $200.00. Seems like a fair price to me. What do you guys/gals think?
Thanks again for the suggestions.
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don hodgdon '89 740ti, '81 240t, '71 D-35
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posted by
someone claiming to be 2Old Volvos
on
Sat Jan 4 04:58 CST 2003 [ RELATED]
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If you can get your hands on a working air ass meter, you might want to see if it fixes your problem. At least you could rule it out as a suspect. My 1990 240 had the same problem and the AMM was the cause.
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Turbo's don't have AMMs. I've been having an idle surge problem on my '85 GLT and after doing a whole lot of things (including cleaning the air flow meter, rebuilding and cleaning the control pressure regulator, replacing the 02 sensor, cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, engine wire harness (which is needed anyway), and all the engine compartment vacuum lines) I figured out it was the PCV hose, which I guess is a common thing to go bad. I'm not sure if yours is a different shape than mine or what the prices might be like for your but it was going to be about $50 to replace mine. So, instead of spending that much for one stinking line what I've done is where the pipe just pushed into the air line to the turbo (should be an aluminum pipe that's about 2" in diameter or more) I got a 45degree fitting made of brass (I think) for a gas plumbing (like natural gas or propane) from the hardware store and with a wrench and some light oil was able to tap the air line for the fitting with the fitting. Now I can use some 'regular' hose in just a straight piece for the PCV. There was another vacuum hose that had the same style hook-up on the large air line and I did the same with it.
The right angle fitting I used was 1/2" flanged on both sides, and the smaller vacuum one was 1/4-1/8" flanged. I used ban clamps on both lines, although they may not be needed.
I hope this makes sense and helps with the surge problem.
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Thanks TD. I got the car today and drove it around a bit, the surge isn't too bad, but it's really annoying. The problem is that the car sat for so long without being driven that most of the hoses have begun to rot and fail. Fortunately this will not be my daily driver and I can take my time searching out all the trouble spots. Driving it tonight I noticed that the lights are flickering a bit (bad brushes?) and the Turbo light is lit, very faintly though. Any idea what the Turbo light indicates? I don't have a manual for this car yet...
The turbo gauge is not working as well. I'll have to pull the cluster soon and see if I have a vacuum leak there.
Again, thanks for the info.
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don hodgdon '89 740ti, '81 240t, '71 D-35
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The turbo gauge and the turbo (overboost) idiot light run off of the same line I believe. This is indeed covered in the Bentley, and if memory serves me right the overboost switch is in the footwell. The easy test is to take the switch off, start the car and apply x PSI to it (different for factory IC'd cars). The car should stall once the "limit" is reached.
However, I wonder if maybe your switch has failed or the wiring is stuffed up as well... as a vaccum leak should result in something unable to maintain pressure.
Actually the turbo light is probably just more visible than the others. The faintly glowing idiot lights indicate that your alternator isn't charging.
- alex
'85 244 Turbo | ~145.5k miles
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Hmm, I'm not sure about the turbo light- something my car doesn't have, and I don't see it in the Bentley manual either. Does it feel like the car has boost? Maybe it's either not getting boost, or it's getting too much, or it's a bad connection- I really can't say :). I would do as you are planning and replace all the hoses and vacuum lines- everything rubber just about.
Good luck with it.
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The turbo is making boost, how much I can't say, but I can hear it spooling up and the engine has gobs more power than any of my NA 240s did.
Anyone have a source for alternator brushes, or should I just yank the thing out and have a local shop rebuild the unit?
Many thanks to all those who have responded :-)
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don hodgdon '89 740ti, '81 240t, '71 D-35
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Before you replace the alternator, check the wiring. If the wiring behind the alternator is shot, fix that first. When you turn the key to position II with the engine off, does the battery light come on? If no, go back and check the wiring again.
Rather than having a shop rebuild yer alternator, go pull one from a junkyard.
- alex
'85 244 Turbo | ~145.5k miles
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Thanks, I'll give that a shot. My mechanic has a whole shelf of used AMMs.
Are all AMMs created equal? Can I use the one off of my '89 744ti just as an experiment?
Thanks again,
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don hodgdon '89 740ti, '81 240t, '71 D-35
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