I need an extra brain or two...

1991 Volvo 245, B230, automatic trans with OD. Last weekend, I
replaced the rear main oil seal, in the process of removing the trans
I bumped the OD solenoid and broke the wire off the top....No problem,
the trans is back in and everything works fine except the OD (it
worked before with no problem), so I order a new solenoid.

Solenoid comes today, and I install it. Still no OD - I can push the
button, and the light on the dash goes on and off, and I can hear the
solenoid clicking under the car.

I removed the solenoid and tested it on the battery: energized, it
opens to pass fluid, de-energized it shuts off the fluid. Makes a
nice healthy click as you operate it.

I cranked the car with the solenoid out and there is a healthy flow of
ATF to the port on the trans where the solenoid fits. Took a bit of
wire and both ports seem clear as far in as I dared reach.

Checked the kickdown cable, it's installed in the same position (more
or less) that it was when I pulled the trans.

Put everything back together, still no OD...fluid levels are right on.

My next move? Good question. I notice there's a pressure testing
port adjacent to the OD solenoid -- can I pull this out and see if oil
flow starts and stops with the solenoid operation, or do I need a
pressure gauge to test this?

Can any of you troubleshooters think of anything I might have missed?

Thanks!

Jeff Sc.
Third Gear, Ga.

Hmm. Tough one. IS it possible you got some dirt into the soleniod ports when you changed it? Dirt will plug them right up.
Also, does the kickdown work otherwise? Is the cable kinked or binding at all? Ought to be free to move easily. After checking those, try a fluid flush, and recheck the operation of the solenoid.
===
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 88 744GLE

I have an '85 240 (#2, and had a '79 245), if I remember correctly, the OD solenoid is not an actuator valve, but a lockout to give better control in hill country. The OD is always on, unless the solenoid shuts off the flow to the actual OD unit in the trans. You can remove the INNER o-ring from the solenoid and the OD switch in the shift lever becomes irrelevant. If you don't live in the hills, locking out the OD does nothing but cost you mileage and engine wear from higher engine rpm's (3000+ @ 70 mph). If the OD stays in, don't sweat it.

BL

Well, here's the follow up to m overdrive saga:

I tried to disassemble the old solenoid to see if I could reconnect the wire inside. Don't bother - when it breaks, it breaks, and the whole coil is glued inside. Once disassembled, it stays disassembled.

Rob asked if everything was clean. Well, I tried to keep it so, but you know about the best-laid plans of mice... Kickdown cable indeed worked freely and properly.

Brik suggested leaving out the inner o-ring. This was something I had already thought about as a test measure, but I wanted to try the poor man's flush first. There is a pressure test port just below the solenoid, but I don't know whether it tests ahead or behind the solenoid... this morning I got a bucket under this port, took the plug out and hung a rag over the hole to deflect the fluid into the bucket. Bad idea - the rag got tossed off immediately. After mopping up two liters of ATF from the garage floor and putting fresh ATF in, I test drove the car - no improvement, still no overdrive.

Next I unbolted the new solenoid and tested the voltage - electricity was getting to the solenoid, and the transmisssion provided a good ground. I left the ignition switched on and crawled under the car, grabbed the loose solenoid and touched it to the car repeatedly, and got a satisfying click each time. I grabbed a can of brake cleaner and blasted it through the ports in the solenoid in both directions to verify that the ports were opening and closing...being careful with a flammable solvent around a sparking device!

After verifying proper operation, I removed the inner o-ring and bolted the solenoid back on. The results were a bit unexpected -- the overdrive worked perfectly, to the point of switching on and off with the button! I would have expected the missing o-ring to allow fluid to bypass the solenoid, but maybe not. Drove the car about 30 minutes, all was well so I reinstalled the center o-ring. Now everything is as it should be, and the overdrive works. Thanks to the folks who read my message and responded.

My theory: I dunno...maybe there was some junk left over from assembly inside the solenoid, or a chunk of crud fell in the port and got pumped into the solenoid the first time the car was cranked. At this point, I'm too relieved to care much!