In the last few months my '87 240 has been showing some signs of a clogged flame trap even though it isn't. Things like small oil leaks from the filler cap, front seals, and valve cover as well as a puff of smoke on start up have me wondering. Although the flame trap and all the hoses it attaches to are clean is there a chance that the breather box itself is plugged. It looks like a real pain to get the thing out. Appreciate any advice and thanks to those who responded to my post a few days ago. Brad

Some bricksters have "cleaned" the box as opposed to changing it during an oil change. As I recall, they drained the oil, left the drain plug out, then poured engine flush and or gumout carb cleaner down the rubber tube to the box. Slight trickle at first followed by a "bloosh" of crud.

I am going to try this method before I attempt to remove the box.

Just my $0.02
--
Regards,

David
1991 744 NA 139+K Miles

I recently pulled and cleaned the breather box on my 1992 240, and it wasnt all that hard....bit of a reach....get some good light down there and go for it. Mine was pretty clogged, and I sloshed it with solvent(overnight soak would be good).

Go for it.

Steve

1992 245, 180,xxxmi, 1988 245, 165xxxmi, Want a MINI Cooper.

stevelloyd,

I removed the EGR Valve and lnes and finally got access to the dang breather/oil separator on my 91 240. I had the darn thing lifted off the mounting surface, and lifted up and tried to twist it off but the heater core hoses and the cable bundle for the fuel injectors would not give me the clearance I needed to wrestle the dam thing all the way off. I ended up putting it all back together.

Did you have any problems with the cable bundle or heater core hoses? or is there some trick to twisting and lifting, or is it lift and twist?

Yes, I ran into trouble with the wiring harness, and I did swear a few times. I was able to hold it back and up with some wire. The box cam off only after pulling it up far enough. When I did it, I was very afraid to pull the hose out that goes down to the pan as information on the Brickboard had warned. The reason it has not come off is that the box probably hasnt been lifted high enough(needs to go up about an inch) before it will come out of the hose that goes down...and as you know, all the stuff above the box makes that difficult. But boy oh boy was it a great feeling when I finally wrestled that thing out.

I hope this helps.

ps. its more lifting than wiggling

Single bolt? Not married to the other one. Sorry.

Just installed on my '86 245:

-ipd throttle body cleaning kit
-ipd flame trap relo kit
-ipd oil separator box (bolts to block)
-ipd air meter-to-throttle body air duct
-ipd K&N air filter service kit

To install the above I removed the existing components and tied the dangling wires, harnesses and hoses aside. This gave me a clear shot at the single bolt attaching the separator box to the engine block. A clean engine helps. A short open-end wrench will turn the bolt about 0.001 turn before you will need to flip (the wrench) for another 0.001. Twist the box clockwise about 25 degrees then wiggle and lift out gently BUT ONLY UNTIL FREE! If the box is still attached to the hose inside the oil pan don't lift it 'til you work the hose free. This will not be a problem unless the hose is swollen and the small rubber retaining tab on the hose is damaged/gone. When installing the new oil separator box attach the new flame trap hose FIRST (without the flame trap) then feed the new hose and box up between the block and the intake manifold. Don't cut any hoses until all is in position. Some of the ipd vacuum lines are a bit larger id than original so a small clamp may help. The gasket between the oil separator box and block must be reused. Check EVERYTHING for clean electrical connections, air/vacuum leaks (the air duct from air meter to throttle body will hide the holes in the accordion folds!).

If you decide to leave the throttle body in place (don't) while replacing the oil separator box add four days to total time.

To get all this with pictures and instructions download Adobe Acrobat then go to the ipd search box and enter ".pdf" without the quotes. Then visit each of the three tabs for each item and one will be a pdf file which will open your Adobe and give you a printable screen.

My apologies to those of you who are regular Brickboard browsers and know all this already.

Brad -

Sounds like you checked everything. How about the brass fitting where the small vacuum hooks onto the intake manifold? I have found that one clogged up often. To really clean it, I remove it and use a 3/32 drill bit to clean it. That way there's no chance of getting shavings and/or crud into the manifold.

If it turns out to be the oil trap, that job isn't too bad. My 1988 B230F has the new oil trap - a much larger box - and the hoses and stuff that allow cleaning the flame trap FROM ABOVE the intake manifold.

My 1986 does not. If your 1987 is the old style, now's your chance to upgrade. The new large oil trap will fit where the old short one was. You will need the "S" hose, cup, and large shaped vacuum hose. Not cheap, dealer only, (I think) but oh so easy to service.

There are two 10mm bolts holding the trap onto the block. One "O" ring is needed, it should come with the new oil trap.

While the trap is out, you have good access to the engine coolant EFI temp sender. If you decide to replace it, there can be a little coolant leak out while the mounting hole is open. Cover the holes where the oil trap goes so that no coolant runs down into the crankcase.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)