For the first two years of owning my brick, I lived in suburban San Diego and could regularly wrench on it when I needed to. For the last year and a half, I have lived in San Francisco, the brick doesn't get driven much and I recently decided to get some repair and upgrade work done. The prices, I thought, would really engage some of you. It makes it upsetting that I can't just work on the car in the street. It's almost enought make me rent a garage.

I take my brick to an all Volvo shop near Berkeley, California. If they weren't really good people, I'd balk at the prices.

The steering rack, ball joints and shocks (front and rear (Boge)) are being replaced. Total: $1567.62. All Volvo parts. Steering Rack - $559.78; Front Shocks - $375.00; Rear Shocks - $280.00; Ball Joints (2) $127.84; Labor - $225.

Brakes (new front rotors and pads, new rear pads). Total: $412.90. Woo-hoo! All OEM/Bendix parts. Front rotor (2) - $206.00; Front pads - $44.95; I just realized they didn't write up the rear pads, say $44.95; Labor - $117.00.

6,000 Mile Service (Oil Change and "Inspection", using my Mann Filter and my Mobil 1) - $58.50!!!!!!

The interior tailgate panel of the wagon was breaking away from the door and there is a repair kit for this, evidently. Total: 148.99!!!!! (Part - $49.99; Labor $90.00).

Of course there are some shims and fluid.

It comes to about $2300 (with the pads they forgot). I ought to by a house in pacific Heights at these rates. One with a really huge garage.

Enjoy,

Joe

Joe:

I guess you don't really want to know that I purchased a pretty nice '91 740T (with M46 manual tranny) last fall for $200 more than you paid for these repairs! Also WRT the OEM Bendix brakes; pretty sure your '92 would have come with Girling fronts and ATE rears - no Bendix at all.
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Mike W., four 240s, a 740T and a 940T, Largo, FL

The brakes are an interesting detail. Thanks for the heads-up.

I've given up letting my volvo guy sell me the parts I need for my brick; he doesn't get them cheaper than I can and he tacks on his own fee to bump it up (not that I have a problem with that, I just don't want to pay it).

Any of a HUGE number of resources exist online that discount parts 50% or more. These aren't second rate parts but OEM goodies directly from the suppliers. These days I just analyze the work I plan to have done, buy the parts online myself, and deliver the whole kaboodle to the mechanic (when I don't do the work myself).

Try the following:
http://www.importeccatalog.com
http://catalog.thepartsbin.com
http://www.alloemvolvoparts.com

All use the same software but sometimes have different prices. As a sample, lets look at some prices for what you bought on alloemvolvoparts:

steering rack: you bought for $559.78. AllOEM has a Maval (M1000-48808) unit for $242.44 and a TRW (M1000-20842) unit for $341.97, both brand new.

pads: you paid $44.95 a set. In front pads AllOEM has PBR for $30.64, Pagid for $26.47, Dan-Block for $37.35, and Textar for $35.50. In rears they have the same brands with lower prices (from $16.05 for Pagids to $23.13 for Dan Block).

rotor: you paid $206 for the front set. AllOEM has five brands including ATE (Teves), Zimmermann, Brembo, Balo, ATE Power Disc, and generic. The most expensive is the ATE Power at $59.55 a disc.

balljoints: you paid $127.84. AllOEM's most expensive option is a TRW kit for $32.24 per ball joint.

shocks are dicey just because everyone's situationis different (nivs/no nivs, etc.), but I think I can safely say they would have saved you another $250 at least.

So, total amount you would have saved is about $690 or so in part costs... worth the effort of buying them yourself online, no? Contrary to what people think you don't HAVE to buy the parts from the mechanic.

good luck,
rt

I have found a great local independent shop, they do good work, and value customer satisfaction. However the prices on parts quoted to me have been high, sometimes very high. The only way I could afford to get necessary work done was to buy the parts myself - Volvo parts. I would not mind paying a bit extra as they have to order parts, keep inventories up. etc., but when the prices are about double ... I have started to feel a bit guilty about bringing in my own parts though - should I be feeling guilty? They know that I feel bad about doing it, but realize that it is the only way right now that I can afford to get the necessary work done. They do know that I appreciate the work that they do on our cars.

Two 240 wagons

does a tire place argue with you about putting on tires you buy somewhere else for less? Not at all. They still make money doing the service, and if they are interested in the selling you the parts they should make you an offer more in-line with what you can get elsewhere. If not they won't be in business very long, since someone else will undoubtedly come along who can offer the service for less.

I have an independant volvo guy who does great work. I realize I'm cutting him out on the deal for the parts, but he still makes $75 an hour on the labor and actually has a simpler job since I provide the exact parts he needs for the job (doesn't need to order them, look for them, or stock them, etc.). Work is work imho... if he refuses to do the work just because I won't buy the parts from him seems a little like cutting off your nose to spite your face... the return on the parts mark-up is nothing compared with the $75 an hour he charges for labor.

-rt

Typical Bay Area, although the labor looks reasonable. They are clearly making their margin on parts. Next time, have them buy aftermarket from Rusty at RPR and avoid the high dealer prices.
You'd be better off finding some good Hispanic guys in Stockton and travelling out there: far better prices. There is also a good Volvo shop somewhere up around Napa.
I recall having my mother's Pontiac fixed at the dealer in Walnut Creek (failing Hall sensor in the distributor) which cost me, in 1991, almost $900. I was too stunned to be outraged: shock was a better descriptor.
For those in the City without access to a place in which you can repair your car, you get the shaft. If you've got even a driveway, do it yourself.

.

What do you expect for The Peoples Democratic Republic Of Berkley, or the Berkley Peoples Commune?

I know what you mean on prices. A few years ago I had my front end overhauled locally and I was charged a huge amount. The really bad part was that the ball joints and tie rod ends wore out within two years, this after the ball joints had to be replaced six months after all the work was done due to split boots.

Needless to say, I'm not taking my car back there again.
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Warren Bain - '86 744Ti M46 >290Kmi, '99 V70Glt > 45K mi, '96 965 >100Kmi Wifemobile near Manassas Va.. Check the 700/900 FAQ via the 'features' pull down menu.

"Steering Rack - $559.78"

Wow! I had the rack replaced on my 240 back before I knew of all the sources for inexpensive parts, but I still paid less than 75% of that price, which was still very high.

See my links page under New Parts. You can do much better.
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Volvo 240 Links | Parts For Sale | Volvo 240 Racing

Oh my goodness.. I could really make out on those rates.
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Chris Herbst
1992 945, 71k
Volvo shop tech

The labor prices seem reasonable but you are being taken for a ride on the cost of parts. Have you ever thought about buying the parts yourself and just paying these people to install them? For example, you could have bought front struts for 1/3 of that price ($120 vs. $375).

Just a thought...


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Matt L. Cary, NC three '89 740 sedans

Oh my! Those parts ARE gold plated I hope. Yeesh.

Kswan

Gold plated...more like solid gold......Im sure you wont want to find out what they pay for them. It looks like they may be upping some of the list prices. Labor does seem fair though.