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sway bar link - when to replace? 900

posted by joshua on Tue Apr 30 12:53 CST 2002
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last visit: Fri Oct 19 03:59 CST 2001

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My 1994 945T needs a new sway bar link on the driver's side. It's separating from the lower bushing. Is this an urgent replacement item, and is it remotely DIY without a jack stand? I have a service appointment at the dealer for 3 weeks, but I can get it in sooner if need be.

FWIW, I just had a 100K service (the car has 98,500 miles) and my indie mechanic didn't notice this, nor the worn strut rod bushings. He's missed a few other things when our cars have been in for regular service, so I'm likely to move on. He's a nice guy, but.

The tech who went over my car at the clinic at Boston Volvo will do this work. That's a useful way for them to get new service customers - a free one-hour evaluation.

Another question: is it prudent to replace both links at the same time?

Thanks for your comments.

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sway bar link - when to replace? 900

posted by Hovonogila on Wed May 1 06:48 CST 2002
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last visit: Mon Sep 22 20:53 CST 2014

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Do you have the aluminum control arm? If you do the procedure is slightly different. Scan-Tech has a picture on their site with the part numbers. It is definitely a DIY, and a torque wrench is a smart thing to have for anyone that has a car with alloy wheels.

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sway bar link - when to replace? 900

posted by someone claiming to be Ron in Detroit on Wed May 1 01:21 CST 2002 [RELATED]

I replaced both in about an hour, didn't use ramps.

Just turn the steering wheel to gain access. Take the top nut off first and then the side nut that goes into the control arm. Replace in the same order. Adjust the top nut until there is 42mm between the washers (measured from the outside). Torque the control arm nut to 64 lbs.

Drive away....

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sway bar link - when to replace? 900

posted by joshua on Wed May 1 02:46 CST 2002
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last visit: Fri Oct 19 03:59 CST 2001

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Thanks for that advice - not having a torque wrench I hesitate to do this, so I may just tighten it up and drive gingerly to my gas station and ask a favor.

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sway bar link - when to replace? 900

posted by djtibb on Wed May 1 04:04 CST 2002
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I got a nice torque wrench (the clicking kind) with a lifetime warranty from Autozone for $25-30. They had some that were even cheaper than this but not as easy to use. Its a good investment as you will probably get a lot of use out of it and it should last a long time. Good to have on hand even for changing tires. Don't want to overtorque the lugs.
--
92 745T 93K mi

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sway bar link - when to replace? 900

posted by joshua on Wed May 1 04:12 CST 2002
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last visit: Fri Oct 19 03:59 CST 2001

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Hey, I need a LOT more convincing than that to go out and buy a tool! Oh wait -no I don't. Sounds like a good plan. :)

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sway bar link - when to replace? 900

posted by mike w. on Tue Apr 30 14:01 CST 2002
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last visit: Thu Sep 13 14:27 CST 2001

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Joshua:

Very DIY. Pretty sure the nut at the top of the link and the bolt at the bottom are both 17mm. Very accessable from under the car if it's on ramps (you can usually find a set of ramps at Pep Boys for $29 or less). The links themselves are around $30 a set from GAPA (check their auctions on eBay). And yes, I'd do both at the same time.

Likewise very DIY'able are the strut rod bushings. I'd replace them with polyurethane parts if you're going to keep the car awhile. Just got a set of these from GAPA too for around $40.
--
Mike W., four 240s, a 740T and a 940T, Largo, FL

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sway bar link - when to replace? 900

posted by joshua on Tue Apr 30 15:28 CST 2002
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last visit: Fri Oct 19 03:59 CST 2001

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Thanks Mike! I have rhinoramps. Is it practical to just replace the bushings on these links?

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sway bar link - when to replace? 900

posted by mike w. on Tue Apr 30 23:22 CST 2002
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last visit: Thu Sep 13 14:27 CST 2001

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Joshua:

I'd think you'd need a press to get the old bushings out and the new ones in, and I'm not positive they're available separately. Buy the sway bar end link "kit" from GAPA or any of the other online parts houses which will include the new bushing already pressed in place in the "loop" end of the link, and new bushings, caps and locknut for the sway bar end of the link. I believe the price on GAPA's website is $17 apiece or so; you'll need two, one for each side.
--
Mike W., four 240s, a 740T and a 940T, Largo, FL

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sway bar link - when to replace? 900

posted by joshua on Sat May 4 06:47 CST 2002
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last visit: Fri Oct 19 03:59 CST 2001

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I don't have clearance to get a socket and wrench on the bottom bolt of the sway bar link - I think it's the inner tie rod end that is too close. Any suggestions on how to make that work, or is removing the tie rod end part of the "I" in DIY? if so, not my job ;) or perhaps this is only an issue using ramps, not jack stands?

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sway bar link - when to replace? 900

posted by mike w. on Sat May 4 06:56 CST 2002
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last visit: Thu Sep 13 14:27 CST 2001

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Joshua:

I was able to get enough clearance by turning the wheels slightly to the right to access the driver's side end link bolt, and to the left to access the passenger side one. Or you can just use a box end wrench.
--
Mike W., '79 242GT, '85 245DL, '87 245 DL, '90 244DL, '91 744T, '94 944T, Largo, FL

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sway bar link - when to replace? 900

posted by joshua on Sat May 4 08:01 CST 2002
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last visit: Fri Oct 19 03:59 CST 2001

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Mike,

no dice for me - maybe with a shallower torque wrench and socket it could squeeze in, but not enough (it seems) to back it all the way off. I don't have time today to remove the inner tie rod end, if that's what is necessary. I would assume that our 1994 940 turbos are similar in this setup.

I'd use a box end wrench, but that sort of defeats the purpose of a torque wrench, no? :(

Josh

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