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Difficult shifting into first 200 1992

Have a new 1992 240 5-speed (TX car, 122K) that becomes progressively more difficult to get into first (from neutral, dead stop) as I drive. After about 20-30 minutes I have to shove it pretty hard to get into 1st (dead stop). If I'm moving even slightly it slips right into 1st.

Anybody know whazzup? Thanks.








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    Difficult shifting into first 200 1992

    A poorly functioning pilot bearing can cause this problem too. I had a Jeep with a bad pilot bushing and almost had to shut off the engine to get it into 1st. But would drop right in at approx. 2mph.

    Good Luck

    Brian 86 240GL








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    Difficult shifting into first 200 1992

    That's typical old(er) M47 behavior.

    One big help would be to change the trans fluid, using normal Type F auto transmission fluid (Volvo's recommendation). The synthetics sometimes accentuate that behavior somewhat, rather than make it better.

    Try pointing the car down a steep hill after it's all warmed up, and THEN try to get it into 1st at a dead stop. You might as well give up right there... but let it roll and it'll go right in.

    The synchros in the M47 need Type F to function under those conditions. Normal 10w30 synthetic oil won't provide what they need. Some other fluids do, but the easiest and most readily available is, for example, Castrol Type F.

    Also, you probably have the occasional reverse issue too, but it isn't nearly as bad. The two go hand in hand, and if you look for it, it's there too.

    Periodically, the reverse lockout plate under the shift boot needs to get adjusted (8mm bolts). You can tell if that's the case by pulling the reverse ring when you're trying to go into first--but don't dump it into reverse by accident.

    Again, typical M47 behavior. You might find some success adjusting the clutch, or replacing the clutch, but the most beneficial change will be the fluid.

    And keep it changed at 15-20k intervals.
    --
    chris herbst, five volvos.









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    Clutch adjustment or synchros... 200 1992

    The Volvo 240 uses a cable-actuated mechanical clutch linkage that periodically needs adjustment. If your clutch is out of adjustment so that it drags slightly even when your foot is fully down, then the 1st-gear synchro won't be able to match the input shaft speed (which is being spun by the motor, due to the dragging clutch) to the mainfshaft speed (which is dead stopped), and the car will be hard to put into gear. You should have a small amount of free play at the top of the pedal travel, and the clutch shouldn't start to engage until you lift your foot off the floor a bit. If it feels like it engages when the clutch is very low against the floor, but you have free play at the top, then you can adjust it. If you have no free play at the top, but it still engages at the floor, then your clutch disc is too thin; in that case you will need to replace your clutch.

    Mike








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      Clutch adjustment or synchros... 200 1992

      I think the car in question is likely to have the hydraulic clutch arangement as it's a late model. Worth clecking the fluid levels etc. These systems aren't really adjustable but play can develop at the peadal as they wear. Only cure for this is re bushing or replacement.

      Regards,

      Big Rich.
      --
      '86 245, B230A. 161k. Old 200s never die, they just live on in other cars.








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      Clutch adjustment or synchros... 200 1992


      Mike,

      Are you referring to a manual transmission car in your response.
      Mine 240SE (92) 115K, manual.

      Thanks.








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      Clutch adjustment or synchros... 200 1992

      Thanks...I'm still puzzled as to why the difficulty of getting into 1st increases as I drive...








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        Clutch problems 200 1992

        My 245 does similar things. Search the brickboard for "cana0006 383_262GL" and "cana0006 Rolyak" to see the good explanation I got for this phenomenon.

        To recap: slightly leaking transmission or dry splines preventing clutch from fully disengaging... relubricate clutch with dealer lube (or temporarily fix with a judicious application of penetrating oil).

        I haven't actually tried these recommendations yet -- my car hasn't been running now for a couple weeks. But it too shifted well when cold, and got tougher after 20-30 min. on the road. All gears, to some degree.

        Belated thanks for the help, Rolyak & 262GL! I'll post results if/when I manage to get them.

        Tim Canan 1980 245/m46








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        Clutch adjustment or synchros... 200 1992

        As the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate heat up, some dimensions will change; this could mean that your clutch is somewhat out of adjustment when it is cold, but more so when warm. If your clutch is dragging, your 1st gear synchro will get hotter whenever you idle with your foot on the clutch, and so it too might be less effective when hot.

        You should also check your transmission oil, and change it if you haven't done so in a while. If the oil is low or old, excess friction in the gearbox will cause higher than normal temperatures, which can also lead to binding of the gears.

        Mike







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