Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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Rear trailing arm bolts 140-160 74

Does anyone have a fairly certain way of getting the rear trailing arm bolts out? (That's the bolts that secure the trailing arms to the rear axle.) I unfortunately don't have gas welding gear. The problem is that once I have the nuts undone the bolt turns out to have rusted to the metal sleeve, and will turn with the sleeve inside the bushing but won't come out. Would using a big vice and some sockets as an improvised press be able to press the bolt out by brute force or would that just destroy parts (mainly the trailing arm) ?

Bram








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    Re: Rear trailing arm bolts 140-160 74

    At this point, time to cut cut cut. Sawz All through the bushing, the rubber then the bolt. Do this about 1/2 inch from the flange on both ends so the center drops out. Cut the rubber away from the remaining bushing enough to allow the blade inside.

    Carefully start a cut on the remaining external bushing ring but do not finish it through. Do this in two places about 90 degrees apart. Take a chisel and just outside one of your partial cuts, hammer the cut toward the center, the other cut will allow the outer bushing ring to collapse and fall free without damage or bending of the flanges.

    Installation of new bushings should include use of the special tool but barring that, devise a half cylinder spacer that holds the flanges apart and keeps them from getting bent and can be removed after the bushng is in place. Then use a 1/2 inch bolt long enough to go through both the bushing and the flanges and wrench the new into place. Really heavy duty washers are needed. You might even have to make your own out of 1/4 inch steel. Watch the orientaton of the bushings and torque all bolts AFTER the vehicle weight is on the suspension componenets.

    Good Luck, Duane








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    Re: Rear trailing arm bolts 140-160 74

    Unfortunatly those bolts rust in there HARD!!! The simplest way is to cut the head off with a torch, then spread the mount enough to squeeze them out, then change the bushings as per normal. Failing that, if you can get a vise or other large squeezing device up there, you may be able to push the bolt into a socket, which will hold the brackets from bending too badly. Experience says this will be a fight. The other thing which sometimes works is to actually tighten the nut before attempting to loosen it. If the steel liner of the bushing is held tight, forcing the bolt to turn as you tighten it the rust may break loose. On a badly rusted one, the torch is likely the final solution.








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      Re: Rear trailing arm bolts 140-160 74

      Thanks. This is indeed the problem (trailing arm still attached to the rear axle, need to remove the bolt to get it out). I was hoping to save the bolt (hey, so I'm cheap), and might try the penetrating oil that Ira seems to have had success with, but reading your reply I guess this will turn out to be a good opportunity to try my new 1020 watt (that would be 9.5 amp in 110volt country) angle grinder. If I had a torch I'ld probably be able to heat it sufficiently to break the rust bond, but as I don't...

      Thanks again,

      Bram









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      Re: Rear trailing arm bolts 140-160 74

      I had success with PB Blaster.....lots of it, applied many times over a period of 2-3 weeks, and hitting the threaded end of the bolt each time I applied the PB blaster. Eventually the bolt began to move ever so slightly and finally I was able to knock it out of the bushing sleeve. Good luck







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