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Re: small gauges/repost of OPG install f/ B21/23/230/82] posted by Stoney on
Friday, 20 November 1998, at 8:22 p.m.
Here reposted if you need it is some info on OP installation...
I think you can also get the 5 bar sender from VDO...the Ext. Temp Sender mounts under the front bumper lip and has a single wire to the gauge(similar to tach set up)and only needs ground and +12..it had a "flag" that would appear on the face when the ext. temp dropped below 30deg F to warn of Black Ice and Ice Fog, etc...same wiring basics for any of these gauges...get some good quality #16 ga and a good set of crimpers, use the good quality hardware and it should be no trouble...since it's an 82 ignore all the TORX references and use the B21 info...becareful round the Alt. wireing and make sure you disco. the Battery before commencing major futzage...
Installing a Volvo VDO Electronic Oil Pressure Gauge
This is for 1990 240 DL B-230 but B-19/21/23 are similar and diffs will be noted.
Parts Needed - Volvo 1394754-4 Oil Pressure Gauge kit - 5 Bar type
Volvo 1259730-8 Plastic cover bezel
Tools Needed - Wire Stripper/Crimper
Socket set - Metric
Open End wrenches - Metric
Torx Wrench set
Std. Screwdriver
10/12mm Crowfoot Wrench
If your Volvo is a baseline DL model, like mine, or you just don't trust the idiot light, you
can install an Oil Pressure Gauge in one of the two openings in the dash. They are under
the two square plastic covers to the right of the speedo cluster. The choices are either the
Volvo OEM gauge or an aftermarket unit. I chose the OEM Volvo which is made by
VDO (but they can't sell it to you), but there are a number of very good units from Sun,
Autometer, Smith, etc. My choice was based on keeping everything looking factory
correct, and the fact that all the parts were included except for the cover bezel for the
dash opening.
1) Start with a cold engine ! You will be working right next to the exhaust manifold and
2nd degree burns are no joke ! Park the car in the work spot the night before you plan to
do the installation.
2)Disconnect the battery ! You will be moving the Alternator, splicing into +12 wiring,
and hooking up to fuse box-so take the time and do it safely !
3)Open hood, lay a fender cover or blanket on right fender.
B-230- Remove the pre heat hose, the big silver sucker, and put it down as low as
possible to gain room.
B-19/21/23 - Not a must do option.
4) B-230 - Loosen lock screw on Alt. bracket adjustment bolt. Use 10mm socket to
loosen Alt. bracket adjustment bolt. Back it off as much as possible until you can move
Alt. towards engine-up and inward- and remove the two belts from the pulley. Check
Alt. wiring and if it's brittle or burned disconnect it and fold it back, if it's OK it can be
left connected.
B-19/21/23 - Ignore this as location of sender is higher on block than B-230 .
5)Swing Alt. down and away from engine. You might want to put a towel or rag under it
to protect Alt. and paint.
6)Disconnect the black wire from Oil Pressure sender. Use open end wrench and remove
the sender. Don't worry the hole won't leak oil.
7)Open adapter bag for your engine. The adapters are not interchangeable, make sure
you are using correct adapter.
B-230 uses 2 adapters, one for block and one 90degree offset for Sender.
B-19/21/23 use 1 adapter.No block adapter is needed and adapter is smaller than B-230
type.
REMEMBER THE ADAPTERS ARE A SOFT BRASS ALLOY AND
STRIP/CROSS THREAD REALLY EASILY! HAND THREAD AND FINGER
TIGHT ARE THE NORM NOT THE EXCEPTION!
B-230 - Take Block adapter and put copper washer on it cupped side down, and hand
thread it into block. Find socket that fits it and snug tighten it in block. Take bent adapter
and thread it into block adapter, hand tighten it and then using 10mm Crowfoot wrench,
snug tighten it until it is at a 10-15 degree forward angle to the vertical. Take New
Sender and put washer on it. Hand thread it onto adapter and finger tighten it.
B-19/21/23 - Same except for no block adapter is used only a bent adapter.
8) Try moving the Alt. back up into it's original position and check the clearance between
the Sender and the wiring and back of Alt. You may have to adjust the bent adapter a
little if you have to gain a little clearance. If everything is clear swing the Alt. down and
using the crowfoot wrench tighten the Sender.
9) Put the Alt. belts back on and tighten the adjustment bolt and put it back where you
found it.
10) Go inside car. Remove upper gauge cover plate, center console left side cover, front
console face, drivers side kickpad and knee bolster. Take wiring set out of box, unroll it
and get the kinks out of it. Remove radio if installed or storage sleeve in upper dash,
remove glove box, remove passenger side kickpad. Starting at gauge hole leave 3 - 4
inches with the connector hanging out of hole. Fit wire harness through to left side of
console and connect the black wire to a ground point. Thread Red/Blue wire through to
fuse box and connect to fuse #13. Thread Grey wire to switch panel at top front of
console and connect it to any Brown wire with a Scotchlock.
11) Go back under hood. Take coathanger wire and thread it through rubber boot around
wire bundle that passes through firewall on right rear of engine. Go inside car and see if
you can find end of it. Tape the end of new sender wire, (Green wire with rubber
sleeving), to coathanger wire. Go back under hood and pull it through to engine
compartment. Pull enough through to get to front bumper, rough measure only you can
pull the excess back inside. Route green cable along the existing wiring harness on the
right side of engine compartment, through fender passage to right front corner past strut
tower. Come out between the washer fluid tank and wheel arch. Go across to block area
and connect the green wire to Tab G on sender, connect black adapter cable to Tab
WK and old black sender cable to black adapter. Work back to firewall strapping the
sleeving to existing wire bundle with wire clips.
12) Pull excess back into passenger compartment. Route it to gauge opening and allow
3-4 inches extra. Cut off excess Green wire and crimp on the cable terminal and fit
Green wire connector into opening in Gauge connector. Plug connector into Gauge and
let it hang. Take rubber wedges and fit them into slots on gauge mounting hole, fit gauge
into hole, rotate it to align key in slot at bottom, push the gauge in until flush. Take cover
bezel and fit it to opening and snap it in place.
13) Reconnect pre heat hose and check Alt. hook up and tension of belts. Check area for
tools and anything you forgot. Reconnect battery. Get in and fire it up!
14) Watch the needle rise ! It should be at 4 on start up of cold engine, 2-3 for warm
idle, 3-4 for Normal temp under load. Let it idle for 10 min and shut it down. Go back
under hood with flashlight and check everything for oil leaks. CAREFULLY SLIDE
YOUR HAND UNDER AND AROUND ADAPTERS AND SENDER AND
FEEL/LOOK FOR OIL! Check wiring for clearance. Get inside and turn on Lights and
check that Gauge lights up for nighttime enjoyment! Clean and put away tools. Have a
beer you earned it!
Now go out and amaze your friends! and ask why they wouldn't help you!
Disclaimer: This is the way I installed my Gauge and I have routed the wire in a different
way than Volvo recommends due to the problems associated with routing of original
harness under front of engine. I feel that this is a routing that will cause less problems in
future. It's cleaner, easier and you don't have to get under the car and drop the belly pan.
If you don't feel confident about your skills, get a friend who knows auto electrics or isn't
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